tom ford: 25 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among the themes in today’s perfumery, violet and iris are becoming more and more common. Of course, creamy fruity and crisp green floral notes still dominate the fragrances we find at perfume counters, but if Balenciaga Paris, Shalimar Parfum Initial and Bottega Veneta are any indication, violet tinged florals are having their moment. The latest addition to this group is Tom Ford Violet Blonde. Launched in Tom Ford’s Signature Collection, where it shares company with White Patchouli, Black Orchid and Grey Vetiver, Violet Blonde is Ford’s attempt to make the cool violet-iris notes sensual.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Is it possible to create a stunning sandalwood fragrance without using Indian sandalwood? As I smell more and more sandalwood dominated new launches, the answer to this question increasingly appears to me as negative. There exists nothing that duplicates the fragrance of Mysore sandalwood, which smells more of flowers and fresh cream rather than of dry woods. Tom Ford Santal Blush is an attempt to construct a classical sandalwood accord, using Australian sandalwood, spices and resins. While it does not convey the mellifluous character of true sandalwood, it presents an elegant twist on the woody theme reminiscent of Diptyque Tam Dao.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A few years ago, Jasmin Rouge would have had me rushing immediately to the perfume store. The idea of a jasmine laced with spices and enrobed in ambers and woods would have been so appealing that I doubt I would have followed the sensible rule of never buying blindly. Yet, today Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge arrives at a moment when there are already several excellent jasmine dominated compositions on the market so it has plenty of competition. It is an elegant composition, but given its luxurious pricing, I would prefer more surprise and character.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If only Tom Ford White Patchouli upheld the promise of its opening accord, I would have been ready to give it 5 stars. It opens up on such a sultry accord of spices and amber with patchouli’s chocolate bitterness perceptible underneath; it is difficult not to fall under its spell. Yet, after an opulent prelude, the composition veers into the barren territory of sharp woods and pale musks. Perhaps this suggests that I prefer my patchouli in the darker registers, full of its earthy, pungent facets.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The moment I hear of Portofino, it evokes the vision of a picturesque Italian town on the Ligurian sea coast. I can also hear the waves rocking small fishing boats, the nasal sounds of the local dialect, and the general din filling a town square on a warm summer day. If I let my imagination take me further, I can even smell the bitter espresso, the rosemary encrusted focaccia from the local bakery and the dark salty sea breeze. Even though the touristy Portofino of today is miles away from the quaint fishing village it used to be, it never fails to inspire romantic fantasies. For this reason, Tom Ford named its orange blossom cologne Neroli Portofino, while Christian Dior later followed suit with Escale à Portofino.

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