February 2006: 32 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

A perfumer of Italian-Spanish descent, Mona di Orio has recently offered three fragrances under her eponymous line, Carnation, Lux and Nuit Noire. A protégé of Edmond Roudnitska, according to the online sources, Mona di Orio is a perfumer whose perfumes bear a classical fingerprint, much like Balanchine school ballet dancers possess certain stylistic and physical characteristics.

The perfumes blend brightness of the top accords with the sonorous richness of their oriental bases, the tapestries of musk, amber and tonka beans. Lux fuses the accord of Eau Sauvage into a vanillic base, with an almost Guerlinesque result. Nuit Noire is reminiscent of a cross between Chergui and Bal à Versailles. They are not weightless compositions; instead, they have intensity and density, and these qualities would no doubt find appeal among the diehard fans of oriental genre. It would be a stretch to say that any of these compositions are reminiscent of Edmond Roudnitska’s luminous and breathtaking arrangements. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Apothia L Eau de Parfum is the chord of iris fading into the green musky sweetness. Iris is the scent of chill, and its fascinating interplay of rooty and floral facets finds a range of expressions in the perfumery, from the smooth richness woven into the emerald tonality of Chanel No. 19 to the rooty iciness pervading Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. In contrast to the melancholy aura of many iris based compositions, L Eau de Parfum explores the brightness of iris, enlivening its proud stance with a scintillating spicy ornamentation. As much as I love the aloof elegance of many iris perfumes, the unsentimental and vibrant iris is always a welcome encounter, especially given the fact that such explorations are relatively rare.

For those familiar with Divine L’Homme de Coeur, L Eau de Parfum will be a very interesting discovery, since both of these iris perfumes were created by Yann Vasnier….

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The new fragrance from the Angel family will be Rose Angel, created by Olivier Cresp, the nose behind the original Angel. It seems that with Rose Angel, the line will end, because Cresp was noted to say, “It’s a saga, with the best one for the end to finish the story.” The Angel’s formula will remain the same, however it will add a strong combination of Bulgarian rose oil with patchouli originally used. in Angel. WWD reports that Rose Angel “has a fruitiness like a plum, the harmony of patchouli and rose and traces of pink pepper.”

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Sometimes one becomes captivated with the beauty of a composition upon first inhaling it, and sometimes it takes more time. In the case of Serge Lutens Miel de Bois, repeated exposure does indeed uncover new facets; however, these discoveries do not result in my increased appreciation for it. Quite the opposite, I realize even more why it does not appeal to me. Part of the problem is that I envision a magical forest of trees dripping with honeyed nectar, yet instead I end up in an alley filled with malodorous miasmas.

Phenylacetic acid in extremely low concentrations has a luscious honey and animalic malt odor; however, in large dozes, it becomes distinctly urinous. Miel de Bois seems to explore the latter aspect of it, and the dry accord of woods touched with animalic leather provides a supporting arrangement which does nothing to dim the effect. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

My first encounter with Cartier Déclaration (1998) left me with a vivid memory of its dry woody accord, which starts on a radiant herbaceous note, then assume spicy warmth of cardamom and cumin and sustain its dryness over a cedarwood base. In comparison to the virile fougère types like Yves Saint Laurent Kouros and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir, the elegant simplicity of Déclaration held my attention like a sincere compliment made without ulterior motives.

Simplifying the perfume formula runs the risk of losing the substance, the story, and the depth. Yet, one has to admire the ability of Jean-Claude Ellena to achieve a balance between clarity and depth, and among his fragrances, Déclaration remains my favorite in terms of achieving this goal….

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