Etro: 3 posts

Shimmering silk saris, henna curlicues, rose scented Indian sweets… I was ready to experience it all as I sprayed Etro Rajasthan on my wrist. Inspired by a state in the western part of India, this perfume from the Italian fashion house, promised to take me away from my routine to someplace faraway and exciting.

It takes me a few moments to realize that Rajasthan doesn’t transport me further than the local beauty counter. It smells uncannily like a rose and violet scented lipstick, but admittedly, it’s a pleasant scent. Its rich composition is based on rose and amber with a jammy accent of violets and gardenia. The rose is creamy and warm, while the marshmallow sweetness of orange blossom gives it a gourmand finish. As the perfume unfolds on your skin, it becomes soft and powdery, with fluffy vanilla rounding out all edges. It has a big presence, noticeable sillage, and a retro chic character.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among artisanal lines, Etro stands out for its innovative twists on classical themes. In a sense, it is the Victorian aesthetic turned rock-n-roll. Thus, Messe de Minuit is a blend of exoticism and peculiar familiarity—old books, mildewy stones and ecclesiastic incense motifs. In Royal Pavillion, the ornate opulence of floral and green notes conjuring the atmosphere of a green house is wrapped into a warm animalic breath. The brightness of citrusy notes in Shaal Nur is dimmed by resinous herbal notes and the truffled facet of opopanax. Although Vetiver (1989) is not as daring and unusual as other Etro fragrances, it is nevertheless compelling. The vetiver is layered with herbs and woods, accentuating the fresh hazelnut aspects of the note. …

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It would not be an overstatement to call Messe de Minuit the most arresting of Etro’s line. While it may not be the most approachable composition due to the musty touch of patchouli, malted warmth of honey and the aggressive sharpness of galbanum, the fragrance compels due to the harmonious blend of these diverse elements. There are no dramatic shifts between the vibrant citrusy tartness of the top notes and the honeyed musk of the base. Created in 1994 by Robertet’s Jacques Flori, Messe de Minuit strikes one somber note after another, allowing one to fall under its spell. …

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