limited edition: 2 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It has been a while since any fragrance from the Armani Privé collection captured my attention. Although many perfumes in the range are elegant and well-crafted, the inflated price makes them much less attractive to me. The only exception so far has been Bois d’Encens, a striking incense and cedarwood composition that intriguingly managed to convey the serene darkness of incense, while suggesting a glamorous aura. La Femme Bleue has been my latest surprise. Although iris has been a heavily used theme among recent niche launches—from Tom Ford Violet Blonde to Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri, La Femme Bleue presents it in an unusual manner. It pairs the cool vegetal austerity of iris with the gourmand sweetness of chocolate and the somber darkness of incense, all the while retaining an uplifting sensation.

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Thierry Mugler Le Parfum coffret (please see my review of the 15 fragrances here) reinterpreting the work by Patrick Süskind, Perfume: Story of A Murderer, is now available on-line in France, Germany and Swizerland. Le Parfum website offers insights into making of the film as well as inspirations for each of the 15 fragrances, which are contain in the coffret: Baby, Paris 1738, Atelier Grimal, Virgin Number One, Boutique Baldini, Amor & Psyche, Nuit Napolitaine, Ermite, Salon Rouge, Human Existence, Absolu Jasmin, Sea, Noblesse, Orgie and Aura (in the chronological order). Each olfactory interpretation of the scenes from the book comes in a 7.5ml bottle, except for Aura, which is packaged in a 15ml flacon. Aura is described as the elixir which is designed to harmonize with all of the fragrance families.

The project is interesting for many reasons, not least of which being the fact that the marketing concept came from the perfumer, rather than the Thierry Mugler team as would ordinarily be done. Laudamiel has worked on the idea for over 6 years with his partner Christoph Hornetz, therefore the fragrances are his personal interpretations of scenes from Suskind’s book. The coffret will be available in the US in November, around which time the English version of the website should be ready. The Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Harrod’s will also be carrying Le Parfum. The price is 550 euros.