Myrrh: 19 posts

Yves Saint Laurent M7 and M7 Oud Absolu : Fragrance Review

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Yslm

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I now know that the worst thing after a perfume reformulation is a relaunch. You mourn your long lost favorite, stock up on bottles and brace yourself for the day when a spray releases nothing but a few scented puffs of air. Then you learn that the brand valiantly decides to reissue the fragrance and your hopes are resuscitated once again. You seek out a sample, eagerly apply the liquid to your skin and—it is not the same! That is exactly what I experienced with M7 Oud Absolu, a relaunch of the marvelous and polarizing Yves Saint Laurent fragrance M7.

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Myrrh : Sensual, Haunting Perfume Note

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Even if you’ve never smelled myrrh, a gum resin obtained from Commiphora myrrha trees native to Yemen and Somalia, its aroma contains so many familiar hints that it is not likely to seem exotic. Strange, maybe, but not completely foreign. Imagine the scent of raw mushrooms and black licorice, then add a bit of smoldering damp wood and bakery exhaust fumes. For some people it is also reminiscent of cool church stones, since myrrh is often used in liturgical incense blends.

Among the notes in the perfumer’s palette, some materials have a reputation of being challenging. Myrrh is one of such difficult, but exciting notes. It has so much character that unless a perfumer is a skilled technician, myrrh ends up smothering the fragrance. As perfumer Calice Becker observes, myrrh for a perfumer is like butter for a chef; it enriches the flavors.  A proper balance of myrrh with other ingredients results in a sensual, haunting character. The dose can range from a delicate accent to a heavy-handed stroke, but in all cases, myrrh indeed deepens the composition.

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Guerlain Myrrhe et Delires : Perfume Review

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Md1

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I have not been excited about any release from Guerlain’s L’Art et La Matière Line since Bois d’Arménie with its softly sketched out woody accord. Iris Ganache and Tonka Impériale were enjoyable, but like a high-calorie dessert, too rich to savor for long. An acquaintance with Myrrhe et Delires, on the other hand, quickly turned into an infatuation.

Peppery and citrusy at first, Myrrhe et Délires immediately changes course into the woody direction. At the heart of Myrrhe et Délires is a beautiful floral accord, which allows you to enjoy the cool, earthy touch of iris and the honeyed embrace of rose. The powdery candy-like violet and the milky peach add a pleasant sweetness.  Just as you settle in to linger over these morsels, you become aware of the savory, cool leitmotif running through Myrrhe et Délires, that of myrrh.

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Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux : Perfume Review

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Amber2

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Whenever I wear Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Précieux and find myself charmed yet again by this sumptuous sweet amber, I wonder why this gem is so rarely mentioned on blogs. Fragrances from Maître Parfumeur et Gantier are well-made and distinctive, and compared to many other niche brands, the price point is very reasonable. Ambre Précieux can hold its own next to many other fancy and not so fancy ambers out there. All comparisons aside, it is a fantastic composition for those—men and women alike–who like their ambers dark, velvety and smoky.

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Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, Encens Flamboyant, Myrrhe Ardente (Les Orientalistes) : Perfume Reviews

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The deeper I delve into perfumery, the more often I pose the question, “why perfume?” to myself. Why do I write about perfume? Why is it that exploring this subject never fails to be exciting and fascinating? Perhaps, it is because scents provide a way to experience the world in a manner that cannot be replicated with any of our other senses. Recently, an illustration of this appeared in the guise of Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, a trio of fragrances inspired by the classical oriental notes—amber (Ambre Fétiche,) myrrh (Myrrhe Ardente) and frankincense (Encens Flamboyant.) They offered me an inspiration to dream.

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