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The first time I smelled White Peony by Dolna Sofiya, I had the sensation of stepping into a memory I hadn’t lived yet—a sunlit room, lace curtains swaying, petals scattered on a linen tablecloth. The perfume didn’t just unfold, it breathed, as if it had been waiting to be noticed: a gauzy blend of rose buds, green leaves, and the faintest trace of nectar. But what stayed with me wasn’t only the scent—it was the sense of intent. This was no imitation. It was a statement: delicate, yes, but deliberate.

Its creator, Sofiya Dolna, is part of a quiet, brave movement blooming in Ukraine—one where scent becomes not just personal expression, but a cultural declaration. In the lingering wake of White Peony, I sensed something larger stirring—a new kind of perfumery, rooted in emotion, resilience, and place. And today I want to tell you about Sofiya—and about what it means to make something beautiful in a time of rupture.

Perfume

White Peony opens like a page in spring light—soft, yet vivid. The initial impression is the brightness of green tea and crushed flower petals, fresh and dewy. The green facets are pronounced, which initially gives the fragrance sharpness. Yet as the composition evolves, the verdant notes soften into a sweet, creamy floral accord. There’s something restrained about the sweetness, as though Sofia didn’t want to romanticize the flower but instead to show it in its quiet strength as well as a fantasy of a blossom. Think a Monet painting of a peony, rather than a high-resolution photograph.

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Уперше відчувши аромат White Peony Софії Дольної, я ніби ступила в пам’ять, якої ніколи не жила — залита сонцем кімната, мереживні фіранки, пелюстки на лляній скатертині. Цей парфум не просто розкривався — він дихав, ніби давно чекав, щоб його помітили: прозора суміш пуп’янків троянди, зеленого листя і найніжнішої краплі нектару. Але залишився зі мною не тільки аромат — а його намір. Це була не імітація. Це була заява: ніжна, так, але цілеспрямована.

Його творчиня, Софія Дольна, є частиною тихого, сміливого руху, що розквітає в Україні — там, де аромат стає не просто особистим виразом, а культурною заявою. У післясмаку White Peony я відчула щось більше — початок нового парфумерного простору, вкоріненого в емоціях, стійкості й відчутті місця. І сьогодні я хочу розповісти вам про Софію — і про те, що означає створювати красу у час розломів.

Як розкривається White Peony

White Peony відкривається мов весняне світло — м’яко, але яскраво. Перше враження — це свіжість зеленого чаю і подрібнених квіткових пелюсток, свіжа й росиста. Зелені ноти яскраві й трохи різкі на старті, але з часом вони пом’якшуються, переходячи в солодку, кремову квіткову ноту. У солодкості є стриманість — ніби Софія не хотіла ідеалізувати півонію, а показати її справжню, тиху силу. Так, це півонія, але її образ, забарвлений трояндовими штрихами, поданий крізь призму фантазії — радше як акварель Моне, ніж як чітка фотографія.

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When the Hermessence collection was first launched in 2004, it was conceived as an olfactory haiku—a few subtle details combined to create a complex impression. I still remain partial to the original creations like Vétiver Tonka and Ambre Narguilé, but the Middle East-inspired trio of Myrrhe Églantine, Cèdre Sambac, Agar Ebène has become my favorite. The compositions are complex and layered, with the classical Hermès radiance.

Myrrhe Églantine, for instance, plays with the shimmering effect of rose, setting it against a velvety background. This contrast has fascinated me from the first time I tried the perfume and the more I wear it, the more beguiling it becomes. The fragrance starts out on a sweet citrus, followed by a dark glimpse of violet. Unexpectedly, however, the notes fuse into an illusion of a crimson rose. When later, myrrh, a plush, resinous material that smells like licorice, woods and unburned incense, stakes its claims, the rose becomes even warmer.

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In memory of Issey Miyake.

The legendary Japanese designer passed away on August 5th at the age of 84. He changed fashion by creating geometrical designs out of pleated fabrics, loose kaftans out of batik, and his signature Flying Saucer dresses. He also revolutionized perfumery by collaborating on a fragrance that smelled of water.

The iris-perfumed water that served as inspiration for L’Eau d’Issey is based on a custom called shoubu yu. On May 5th, Children’s Day, people in Japan take a bath with iris leaves. The leaves are sold in small bundles to be floated in an ofuro bathtub, and while the symbolism is good health, the delicate fragrance of iris leaves was one of the lasting memories for Mr. Miyake. He explained to Cavallier that he wanted to capture this specific scent in his fragrance.

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When I was preparing the bitter orange series and researching fragrances that showcase neroli and bitter orange, Roger & Gallet’s Bois d’Orange ended up at the top of my list. I also realized that although I had written plenty about this excellent cologne, I haven’t published a proper perfume review. This is an omission, because Bois d’Orange deserves more attention.

Bois d’Orange blends orange blossom and citrus notes with herbs and the result is a dry martini of a fragrance. This genre of cologne is the most uplifting and rejuvenating on a warm day–or whenever you need a pick-up. It’s easy to wear, easy to enjoy–and at 20 euros for a bottle, easy on the wallet.

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