lancome: 10 posts

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Of all the fragrances attempting to convey the idea of darkness, Lancôme Magie Noire stands out as particularly successful. The layering of animalic notes, the opulent florals like ylang ylang and tuberose and a lush dose of moss results in a fragrance of such mysterious, dusky and brooding character that I cannot describe it in any way but haunting. It is not easy to like as a fragrance since it is simultaneously quite dark, animalic and intensely green. Despite its rich floral accord, it is not particularly feminine either, and in fact, I can see it as an interesting, unconventional masculine scent. I cannot help being fascinated by the way Magie Noire evolves and goes from challenging to spellbinding.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There are times when one has cravings for a fragrance that merely teases with its mouthwatering associations, almost taking one to the patisserie, but not quite. Lancôme Hypnôse is such a composition, a pleasant sorbet of a fragrance that at first melts lusciously enveloping one in tropical fruit tartness and creamy vanilla, and then fades into the pleasant aftertaste of musky woods.

The frangipani drizzled with peach nectar opening of Hypnôse is layered with green jasmine, the lacy opulence of which serves as a nice counterpoint to the fruit compote in which the composition is liable to drown. The tropical fruitiness is however not overly sweet, and while the accord is not an impressionistic melody, it is not a glassy photorealistic rendition either, remaining between a flower and a fruit mélange. Hypnôse is reminiscent of Sicilian confections of sugar, candied pumpkin and almonds, scented with jasmine water. Just like these candies leave a taste of summer flowers on the lips, Hypnôse retains a touch of floral sweetness as it unfolds into one vanilla foiled layer after another. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Poignantly elegant and refined, Lancome Climat is a beautiful arrangement in which green notes are set against the lustrous glow of aldehydes and then blended into the waterfall of flowers. It touches with its ability to remain like a piece of gossamer fabric floating in the wind, while possessing a decadently sensual richness afforded by the animalic notes on which Climat rests its diaphanous form.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The rose is indelibly associated with Lancôme, given its founder Armand Petitjean’s strong passion for this flower. An avid rosarian, he cultivated roses in his garden in Ville d’Avray, outside of Paris and as a result, not only has the rose become an important symbolic representation of the house, but it has also found a central place in the Lancôme fragrances from Conquête (1935) to Trésor (1990). To commemorate the millennium, Lancôme chose its symbol to shine in a fragrance composed of several different types of roses, such as dune rose, musk rose and Bulgarian rose. The fragrance was named 2000 et Une Rôse (now called Mille et Une Rôse).

The task of creating an outstanding rose fragrance is complicated by the fact that the theme has seen many variations, from the dark chypric to the light citrusy roses, from the languidly seductive to the coyly delicate interpretations. Composed by Christine Nagel, Mille et Une Rôse is a rose that tantalizingly straddles the line between natural and abstract. …

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