Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
One cannot fault Viktor & Rolf for lacking creativity when it comes either to their fashion collection or their fragrance packaging. The amethyst tinted Flowerbomb is incased in a faceted grenade shaped bottle, while the new masculine fragrance Antidote is presented in an elegant square flacon; its pale emerald liquid contrasting with the ebony black detail on the bottle and the box. Yet, the fragrance inside Flowerbomb was a let down. Instead of the black Victorian gown of a fragrance that I envisioned, it was an ivory satin dress. Lovely and tasteful, but somehow lacking the edginess of Viktor & Rolf fashion. …
It is difficult to call Antidote a risqué fragrance given its extremely refined character. If Flowerbomb is conventionally pretty, Antidote is classically elegant. The transition of accords from the top to the base is perfectly seamless, which lends a polished quality to the composition. The green florals in the heart of Antidote creates a bridge between the herbaceous spice of the top notes and the vanillic woody base. As the initial freshness fades, the drydown assumes an unexpectedly smoky quality.
In order to create impact, Antidote takes the oriental elements most commonly found in feminine fragrances and sets them against the woody freshness one encounters in fragrances like Acqua di Giò pour Homme. The feminine touch is not new in masculine perfumery. Dior Homme, Lanvin Arpège pour Homme and most recently Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme have all relied on a similar technique of fusing a pronounced floral facet into their composition; this emphasis makes them stand out among either the sweet masculine orientals à la Angel for Men or the hair-chested fougères like Yves Saint Laurent Kouros. After the top notes of Antidote wear off, the heart remains quite androgynous, which should make it appealing to women as well.
If one expected a revolution from Antidote, such hopes would be misplaced, although Antidote is undeniably very well-composed. Nevertheless, it seems that Viktor & Rolf perfumes have taken the road of polished charm, leaving the edgy ruffian to the catwalk.
Antidote includes notes of mint leaves, Italian bergamot, mandarin orange, essence of grapefruit, essence of cardamom, sambac jasmin absolute, lavender, geranium, nutmeg, black pepper, cinnamon, freesia, orange blossom, violet, cistus labdanum, vanilla, iris, white cedar, guaiacum wood, tree moss, leather, white musk, tonka bean, sandalwood, ebony, patchouli. It is available from Nordstrom, Saks5thAvenue.
8 Comments
Leopoldo: I tried this a few days’ ago and found it remarkably yawnworthy. Nicely done, but essentially pointless. Perhaps i’m being too harsh… October 11, 2006 at 11:10am
Robin: Need to give this one a 2nd try…liked it well enough on a test strip, but it didn’t slay me. Boo hiss to Saks for not giving samples, LOL… October 11, 2006 at 1:27pm
BoisdeJasmin: Leopoldo, when so many new fragrances I encounter simply smell cheap, a blend with harmony and quality is already enough to stand out. October 11, 2006 at 12:50pm
Erika: ‘polished charm’ sounds actually rather nice – I think maybe that this is one that might be considerably better, and perhaps a little less tame smelt on skin than on a test strip…I can hope, right? October 11, 2006 at 7:07pm
BoisdeJasmin: R, it is definitely very nicely done, but it is better on the skin. I liked how it assumed a smoky character with time. October 11, 2006 at 7:35pm
BoisdeJasmin: Erika, I definitely agree–on the skin, it seems to plunge quicker into the warm part I liked about it. All in all, it is definitely a well-made and polished composition. I think that many women might like it. October 11, 2006 at 7:36pm
lyndsey: when and where can i purchase victor rolf antidote in the uk? February 19, 2007 at 2:31pm
leer: i loved this perfume and i think its one of the best fragrances i’ve smelt in my life. it starts of strong den as time goes by it jst gets better and better!!!’Lyndsey’ u can get this perfume from House of Fraser or Beatties or Debenhams or Selfridges! November 30, 2007 at 1:58pm