bertrand duchaufour: 17 posts

Andy on his love of incense.

If there’s one thing I smell to feel better, it’s frankincense. Whether I need a break from typing, am feeling stressed, need to be jolted awake—I often simply reach for my pouch of frankincense tears and take a deep whiff. Even if I rarely find the time to conduct an incense ceremony all my own, just a brief inhale of frankincense has come to feel like a special, private ritual to me. I mention my habit of smelling this special resin because Aedes de Venustas’s Copal Azur, created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, captures every element of frankincense I love, from brisk piquancy all the way down to rich, balsamic sweetness.

Soon after Copal Azur melds into the skin, it reminds me of crushed peppercorns and cardamom pods. As this initial fiery sizzle begins to soften, the frankincense starts to shine through with a nearly pine-like, aromatic freshness. The overall effect is bracing and crisp, uplifting enough to widen one’s eyes for a moment, but devoid of any rough edges.

Continue reading →

Paris jeweler Ann Gérard is introducing a new fragrance in her collection this spring.  Rose Cut was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, the same perfumer who worked on other fragrances in Gerard’s collection, Cuir de Nacre, Perle de Mousse, and Ciel d’Opale. The name derives from a diamond-cutting technique which gives stones a soft radiance.

“My inspiration for Rose Cut was a word: Allure. While beauty often fades over the years, allure lasts forever. Rose Cut celebrates women who fully embrace their personality and femininity. To reflect their many facets, I wanted an “oxymoron fragrance” that would combine opposites: femininity/strength, luminosity/depth.

In the composition, these opposites translate into luminous notes (pink pepper, aldehydes) associated with warm, balsamic, velvety notes (vanilla, peony, benzoin), and through the association of rose (wildly feminine) with patchouli (strength and character).”

Rose Cut includes notes of aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, roses, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oak wood absolute and benzoin absolute. 60 ml Eau de Parfum, $165. Via press release

L’Artisan Parfumeur is adding three new fragrances to its Explosions d’Emotions, which currently includes Déliria, Amour Nocturne and Skin on Skin. Haute Voltige, Rappelle-Toi, Onde Sensuelle will join the collection in the beginning of May. All three were designed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.

Haute Voltige embodies exuberance. “True excitement. Feel the goose bumps on your skin as an intense joy takes over. This is an Eau de Parfum with an expansive and extroverted personality: where a generous floral peony note meets with the unexpected fruitiness of pomegranate. An explosion of joy.”

Rappelle-Toi is understated and contemplative. “Silence as a door to our inner thoughts. A contemplative fragrance, anchored in the stillness of our surroundings. With its mesmerising opulence, gardenia evokes this quiet introspection, enlivened with fresh vibrating notes of Sichuan pepper. This magnificent flower is enhanced with musks and smooth sandalwood with honey accents. A beautiful transcendence.”

Onde Sensuelle is about desire and passion. “An insatiable, voracious desire is felt like a deep force, surging under the skin. A wave of sensuality washes over you. This Eau de Parfum is a work in contrasts, between a burning spicy bouquet of ginger, saffron and cumin, and the icy crispness of juniper berries and cardamom. It recreates the sensation, and tension of this urge. A captivating wave of passion.”

Available starting the beginning of May 2014 in the Eau de Parfum concentration, 125ml/140 euros.  Via press release.

Patricia talks of emperors and leather miniskirts.

In one of my favorite comics, “Rose Is Rose,” the title character, a mild-mannered housewife and mother, has an edgy biker chick alter ego complete with big hair, thigh-high boots, a leather miniskirt, and a rose tattoo. This character pops up when Rose is stressed, conflicted, or otherwise feels the need to exert some power in her life. This kind of power is what I felt on first application of Ashoka, Neela Vermeire’s fourth fragrance, created in collaboration with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.

Ashoka (304-232 BCE) was an Indian emperor of the Maurya Dynasty. Through his frequent military conquests, he eventually ruled over what is present-day India. A fierce warrior and leader, he converted to Buddhism after witnessing the mass death and destruction of the Kalinga tribe, and he played an important role in making Buddhism a world religion. This perfume, which honors him, follows the same trajectory: from strong opening, to floral heart, to a quiet complexity of earthy notes.

Continue reading →

A perfume fit for a Maharaja, says Penhaligon’s about Vaara, a fragrance inspired by the Royal House of Marwar-Jodphur in Rajasthan. This state in the northwest of India means “the land of kings,” and it’s renowned for its colorful textiles, filigreed palaces and majestic forts. It’s also the place where you can buy opium scented incense (whether or not it includes the actual drug is another matter) and try the decadently rich milk shakes perfumed with pistachios, almonds and saffron. Like most of India, it’s a sensory roller coaster.

So, why is Vaara such a wallflower? Etro has already tried to take us to Rajasthan with its recent fragrance, but the violet and rose combination never got past the South of France. Despite its promises, Vaara doesn’t even cross the Channel. It’s soft spoken and mild, a perfume for someone who really doesn’t like orientals or anything richer than frozen yogurt.

Continue reading →