May 2006: 32 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The dryness of Sous Le Vent stings mildly before the caress of flower petals tempers the rustic feel of the herbal notes gracing the top accord. The perfume was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1934, and while I would not call it modern, it has a timeless quality of an artwork that moves with its beauty. In the classical chypre family, Sous Le Vent holds a place as a composition that blends the sensual elegance of Mitsouko and the roughhewn character of Coty Chypre, with the most intriguing result. While it touches in a gentler manner than the green leather of another fascinating Guerlain composition, Djedi, its embrace nevertheless has a passionate quality. …

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The Grasse Institute of Perfumery established by the ASFO association is now offering courses for anyone who has an interest in understanding the creation process and learning more about perfumery. The training courses follow the seasonal cycle of the flowers, starting with the renowned rose de mai, Rosa Centifolia in May and continuing through to jasmine in early September. The first immersion course takes place during the months of July and August allowing students an “opportunity to spend one of two weeks gaining an insight into the fragrance creation. The Summer School immersion course allows students to trace the history of fragrance whilst they deepen their knowledge and understanding of the technical basics related to raw materials, creating their first floral accords (as jasmine and rose) or by studying famous perfume.” For more information, please contact [email protected] (tel (33) 4 92 42 34 90 or visit the website. …

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This month’s Allure has a short feature, in which perfumer Yann Vasnier offers recommendations on the rose focused fragrances. Two fragrances with rich rose notes created by Vasnier were not mentioned, yet I would like to point them out anyway: Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises and Comme des Garçons Rose (Red Series) .

Anyone who is interested in the sense of smell and its place in the society might find the new journal published by Berg, The Senses & Society fascinating. The publisher offers the following description,

“this pioneering journal provides a crucial forum for the exploration of this vital new area of inquiry — the senses in culture and society. It brings together groundbreaking work in the social sciences and incorporates cutting-edge developments in art, design and architecture. Every volume contains something for and about each of the senses, both singly and in all sorts of novel configurations.”

The inaugural issue was published in March 2006, while the rest will appear three times a year–March, July and November. Indeed, it is well worth the price of subscription. More information can be found at Berg Publishers.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If there is a perfume that in the recent history has inspired the most imitations and variations, it must be Angel (1992), a dramatic composition combining an overdose of patchouli with the cotton candy sweetness of maltol. The surprising aspect is that the juxtaposition works remarkably well, resulting in a fragrance that fuses the gourmand temptations of melted chocolate swirled into warm honey and the unexpectedly masculine earthiness of patchouli. Although arresting and sensual, the combination can hardly be called pretty. …

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