Recommend Me a Perfume : August 2019

Are you looking for a new fragrance? Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors.

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

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234 Comments

  • Pable: Salut!

    Thank you for this platform to speak with other perfume lovers!

    I love fresh flower scents and Guerlain Muguet is my very favorite! Unfortunately, it seems to be rare and extremely expensive. Please let me know if there are other Muguet- lily of the valley perfumes that are similar in fragrance. I like crisp, fresh, natural muguet as close to the Guerlain fragrance as possible.
    Thank you for your help!! August 19, 2019 at 9:59am Reply

    • Jessicarus: I bought Muguet Fleuri by Oriza L. Legrand this Spring, and I have been very happy with it. Sadly, I haven’t had the opportunity to smell Guerlain’s take, but I did a fairly exhaustive search of Lily of the Valley scents over the past decade. Muguet Fleuri surprised me when I’d about given up. There are numerous elements listed on fragrantica—perhaps my nose is not as discerning as some, but to me it smells like clear fresh and green Lily of the Valley without being too sharp or strident. I find it very beautiful! Good longevity too. Good luck with your search! August 19, 2019 at 11:51am Reply

      • Pable Holloway: Thank you Jessicarus!! I look forward to trying Muguet Fleuri by Oriza Legrand. August 20, 2019 at 1:01pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Oh my goodness, I love muguet fragrances too, and I sometimes do a “May Muguet Marathon” on my own blog. So I’ve written about MANY of them, including Guerlain Muguet (the 2016 version), which is beautiful. Muguet Fleuri is lovely; I also like Hermes’ Muguet Porcelaine. August 19, 2019 at 7:43pm Reply

      • Pable Holloway: Thank you for your suggestions Old Herbaceous. I will definitely try Muguet Fleuri and Hermes Porcelaine. Your May Muguet Blog with a focus on Muguet sounds very interesting !! Muguet. Thank you for sharing! August 20, 2019 at 1:06pm Reply

    • Aurora: Maybe you would like Caron Muguet du Bonheur. August 19, 2019 at 9:12pm Reply

      • Pable Holloway: Thank you Aurora! I will definitely try Caron Muguet du Bonheur. I can imagine that it must be beautiful! August 20, 2019 at 1:08pm Reply

    • kpaint: Diorissimo would be the gold standard, but I suppose you’ve already tried that one? August 23, 2019 at 1:44pm Reply

    • Erin: I used to wear Diorissimo in college and loved it. It has, too me, a very green muguet scent. But it my body chemistry must have changed since then because it doesn’t really work on me anymore. August 23, 2019 at 6:16pm Reply

    • Purple: Now, I must admit I haven’t tried the Guerlain Muguet and therefore maybe shouldn’t comment. However, where’s the fun in that? 😉

      Following up a similar suggestion I got myself in april for lilac scents, I would suggest Yves Rocher’s Muguet En Fleurs, from the Un Matin Au Jardin series. It is a green and realistic lily of the valley. Does not last ages, but goes pretty easy on the wallet, so I don’t mind reapplying.

      Now, if the price wasn’t an issue, I would recommend my recent and first exclusive perfume purchase – Frederic Malle’s Lys Mediterranee by the nose Eduoard Flechier. It’s called lys, not muguet, but there are actually three lilies in here: ginger, water and of the valley. At least on my skin, it might just as well be a lily of the valley solifleur. It’s really lovely and realistic, actually even including some of the heavier aspects of the lily of the valley. Maybe it isn’t very green, green isn’t even listed among the main accords on Fragrantica, but it’s greenish at the very least. You will forgive me for going on about it, I hope; as you know, the mouth will speak what the heart is full of. I hope you find a really nice muguet! August 23, 2019 at 10:09pm Reply

  • Gunilla gorman: Victoria, I have loved your articles for a long time. In the 70s and 80s I absolutely loved and adored Bal a Versailles. It was perfect, not too strong, a little sweet at the beginning and dried down to perfection (on me). It was the only scent I wore. I stopped using it when I had babies and when I started to look for scents again end/90s I was chocked to smell BaV. It was awful and I don’t think it was just my nose that changed. I haven’t found anything remotely close to it ever since and am always looking. I can’t find anything to love, hardly even like.
    I would love to hear your suggestions.
    I live in Boston, so hot summers and cold winters. August 19, 2019 at 10:04am Reply

    • KatieAnn: Have you tried Hermes 24 Faubourg? I really like it. It is different from BaV, but still a rich, old world perfume to my nose. I prefer the older formulation from the 90’s and early 2000’s that had the oak moss in it. There are plenty of these still available if you look on-line (i.e. eBay or Etsy). Also, the richer concentrations of Guerlain Shalimar may appeal to you. August 19, 2019 at 11:20am Reply

      • Gunilla gorman: KatieAnn 24 Faubiurg does not sit nicely on my skin, it turns weird after a few minutes.
        I like Shalimar but I usually put it on at bedtime because when I was in my 20s, all the old ladies wore Shalimar. Now that I’m an old lady, I don’t want to smell like one. Thank you for your suggestions. August 21, 2019 at 4:17pm Reply

        • KatieAnn: You, know, I was thinking you could try eBay for some vintage BaV. There are plenty of listings for it.
          Sorry the suggestions didn’t work out. I wish you luck on finding something you truly enjoy. The hunt is fun, I think! August 21, 2019 at 4:33pm Reply

          • Gunilla gorman: I Will Rey eBay, thank you for your suggestions. The Hunt is fun in a way but Boston does not have a LOT of options. There is still Barney’s for unusual scents, but that’s it. August 21, 2019 at 10:19pm Reply

    • AnnieA: @Gunilla, this is a bit of an oddball suggestion, but if you like rich, retro scents, you might want to have a sniff of Zoologist Civet. August 19, 2019 at 10:27pm Reply

  • Andrea: Hello, everyone! I love Van Cleef and Arpels Moonlight Patchouli and Bottega Veneta EdP. Are there perfumes that are similar in colour and character? What do you think? I would love to know.
    And which perfumes do you like for bedtime? August 19, 2019 at 10:41am Reply

    • Anne: Hello,
      I am not sure which perfume would be similar to van cleef and arpels and bottega, but I can tell you that, for bedtime, I absolutely Love Tam Dao edt. It s like being in soft coton surrounded by warm wood chips. August 19, 2019 at 10:51am Reply

      • Anne: Tam dao from diptyque.* August 19, 2019 at 10:52am Reply

        • Andrea: I love Tam Dao! Thank you, Anne! August 19, 2019 at 10:57am Reply

    • kat: Bottega Veneta has two flankers – though they might be too close? I love them both and wear them when the mothership feels a bit too heavy. The Eau de Velours is very close but a bit more feminine with rose and plum adding a bit of sweet fruitiness. The Eau Légère is further away – no leather but more white flowers, it’s definitely the summer version so to speak. August 19, 2019 at 11:13am Reply

      • Andrea: Thank you, Kat! I will definitely revisit the Bottega flankers! August 19, 2019 at 11:52am Reply

    • kpaint: I recently read a review of Tenue de Soiree (Goutal) that compared it to BV.

      Other random thoughts:

      La Fille de Berlin might be worth trying. It shares a rich, wine-y note with the other 2. Galop d’Hermes is a fruity leather like BV, though not particularly similar. Same goes for La Petite Robe Noir Black Perfecto. Tom Ford Noir de Noir is a dark rose somewhat along the same lines as Moonlight Patchouli, as is L’Artisan Voleur de Roses.

      As for bedtime perfumes, I tend to go for soft & cuddly, powdery, and roses. Anything comforting that doesn’t interrupt my sleep 😉 August 19, 2019 at 4:16pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello kpaint, thanks for these great suggestions! I’ll try Galop d’Hermes and Tenue de Soiree first. I know, where I can find them. August 19, 2019 at 4:30pm Reply

    • Cybele: Hi, I also love Moonlight Patchouli. You might like Rose Nacree du Desert, Guerlain, Coromandel and give Coco Noir a try. August 19, 2019 at 7:15pm Reply

      • Cybele: and I agree with Galop August 19, 2019 at 7:16pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Cybele. These suggestions sound great. That reminds me: I still got a sample of Coromadel somewhere. The Guerlain-Scent is very interesting. I once tried Rose Barbare but I can’t remember what I thought of it. I’ll try Coco Noir again, maybe it convinces me now. Thanks for your answer! August 20, 2019 at 12:05pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Hi! I have enjoyed wearing Jicky EDT at bedtime lately; I just find it soothing. Anything with lavender is nice; and I also like Cartier’s Carat at bedtime — it’s just a very pretty floral that I find relaxing. August 19, 2019 at 7:47pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Old Herbaceous, thanks for your answer. My nose thinks Jicky to demanding for sleep. On the other hand the last time I asked was years ago. Maybe I should try again. Lavender for bedtime is great. I like Bucoliques de Provence by L’Artisan Parfumeur. a nice lavender-leather-scent. August 20, 2019 at 12:14pm Reply

    • Aurora: I enjoy Clarins Eau Ressourcante for bed because it’s so calming. August 19, 2019 at 9:15pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Aurora,

        I absolutely agree! August 20, 2019 at 12:15pm Reply

    • Rosie: It’s such a simple budget luxury, but I currently adore misting my pillow and sheets with 4711 Eau de Cologne just before bed. I find it so refreshing and uplifting, and it’s one of the main perfumes of my childhood, along with Crabtree and Evelyn’s Rosewater. It lifts my mood if I’ve had a difficult day, and makes a clean break between the emotions of the day and the quiet time of the night.

      Sometimes for a change though I think about contrast with what I wore during the day. If I wore something cool and earthy during the day I might want something more floral and girly at night. August 20, 2019 at 8:09am Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Rosie, I like the Idea of wearing something opposite to the day-time-outfit in the evening. I, too, like 4711. Of course living in Cologne I have to mention the Farina-Eau-de-Cologne. It sparkles. I couldn’t lay my hands on a Crabtree scent yet, but it sounds good. Thanks for your answer. August 20, 2019 at 12:25pm Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Andrea,

      I haven’t tried the scents you mentioned, but the bedtime fragrances I love are the Sylvaine Delacourte scents (except Helicriss, which is too cumin-strong for me). They are very powdery and comforting with no jarring notes, and they have a very high degree of natural oils, which gives them an aromatherapy effect. My current favorites are Lilylang (a soft, sweet, powdery scent in the same family as Teint de Neige) and Virgile (a soothing herbal unisex scent).

      I also like spraying Aura Cacia Relaxing Lavender Room & Body mist on my sheets every evening. You can’t go wrong with lavender essential oils. August 20, 2019 at 12:00pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Lydia, thanks for your answer. I somewhere have a Sylvaine Delacourte scent. I can’t remember, which one it is. I definitely have to find it soon. I remember finding Teint de Neige quite nice so I’ll probably like Lilylang, too. and the “Virgile”-one might be great. I like herbal unisex. August 20, 2019 at 12:29pm Reply

        • Lydia: Andrea,
          One more you might try is Memo Paris’ Siwa. It has a soothing powdery/lotion-y scent, very calming. (I actually wrote in my perfume notebook, “good for sleep.”) August 20, 2019 at 2:51pm Reply

          • Andrea: Lotion-y is really promising! Thanks a lot! August 20, 2019 at 3:28pm Reply

            • Andrea: And I can get it in Germany! Yeah! August 20, 2019 at 3:31pm Reply

        • kpaint: I’ve you like Teint de Neige and powder, one of my faves for sleeping and otherwise is Miller & Harris Floriental. It’s powder powder powder, and lovely. Ombre Rose is nice, too.

          I also like sleeping in Bois des Iles EdT, and just about any version of Chanel No 5 & Shalimar. TDC Jasmin de Nuit, Prada Infusion d’Amande, Tauer Rose Delight & When We Cuddle etc, Lolita Lempicka L’Eau en Blanc, and ELdO Divin’Enfant are other favorites (all falling under the “cuddlefluff” category.) In the winter, I am partial to sleeping in Vanilla/Musk/Tonka perfumes – the simpler the better. August 23, 2019 at 2:02pm Reply

          • Andrea: Gosh, I have to google a lot there! Thanks for all these suggestions and for the description of Alaia, too. I like vanilla for bedtime, too, Eau Duelle by Diptyque, for example. I like Bois des Iles for Christmas, don’t know why. August 23, 2019 at 2:34pm Reply

    • limegreen: Hi Andrea,
      I’m a little late but wanted to chime in as I enjoy Moonlight Patchouli and it’s about all the patchouli I can handle. So i agree with the Coromandel recommendation though it’s stronger in patchouli than MP.
      I enjoy Heeley Hippie Rose with the rose patchouli combo.
      Have you tested Dior Cuir Cannage? It’s one of the prettiest floral leathers I know. Not as powdery as Bottega Veneta.
      I wonder if you’ve tested Hermessence Cuir d’Ange? Gentle soft leather with a touch of floral, just lovely. It’s been compared to Bucoliques de Provence, which you have mentioned.
      And want to put in my vote for Galop d’Hermes.

      (A little off the radar but Alaia, the first fragrance for the design house, is a pretty nice floral leather, with that interesting wet stone note, is worth testing. A bargain, too.) August 21, 2019 at 12:29pm Reply

      • Andrea: Hello Limegreen, I really want to try a lot of the Dior Collection Privée, I just don’t know how. Maybe I have to order samples if I find some on parfumo sometime. Cuir Cannage looks great as does the Hermessence scent you mentioned. The Alaia scent was quite unusual on first sniff. Maybe I should take more time next time I try it. I thank you for these fine suggestions! August 21, 2019 at 12:52pm Reply

        • limegreen: Hi Andrea!
          I had to wait until I got to a Dior boutique (not one in my town) to try Cuir Cannage but it was well worth it. Turned out Heathrow dutyfree also carries the entire Collection Privee. I hope you will get a chance to test it. 🙂

          (Victoria had a nice review on Alaia, otherwise I would not have sought it out. I do like the wet stone note but I think some find it offputting — it’s part of a childhood narrative about wet Tunisian stone that made it into the fragrance) August 22, 2019 at 12:43am Reply

          • Andrea: Hello Limegreen, testing the Diors will be difficult, but I keep Cuir Cannage in mind. Victoria’s Alaia review is wonderful. I will give the scent another try. Maybe today. I have work to put off 🙂 August 22, 2019 at 3:06am Reply

          • kpaint: I love that wet stone note (more like hot stone doused in water & emitting steam to my nose) though I only smell it when I wear Alaia in hot weather.

            Will also add that this perfume has astounding longevity on me – about 24 hours. It goes through lots of different stages of development, however, so it’s quite a ride. August 23, 2019 at 2:06pm Reply

            • limegreen: You are right, it is moist steam rising from hot stone (and that’s the narrative, too). I was using “wet stone” as a shorthand! 🙂
              24 hours! That is quite a ride. To Tunisia and back? August 23, 2019 at 10:17pm Reply

    • Purple: I love Bottega Veneta and was surprised to find the celebrity scent Rogue by Rihanna being both similar to BV and actually better than I expected from a celebrity scent at a very nice price. August 23, 2019 at 10:16pm Reply

      • Andrea: Thank you for the hint, Purple! I never would have thought of testing it. August 24, 2019 at 2:20am Reply

        • Purple: The beginning differs more, and then they’re more alike further on. I do think BV is of better quality, smoother or something, but Rogue is a very nice surprise. Worth a sniff, I think. 🙂 August 24, 2019 at 4:13pm Reply

    • Ninon: I like Bois d’Armenie for bedtime. August 28, 2019 at 2:32am Reply

      • Andrea: Thank you, Ninon. I have to look it up on Fragrantica. August 29, 2019 at 7:33am Reply

  • Courtney: Hello! I am a (somewhat newly) scent-obsessed fiction writer in search of insight.

    The protagonist of my current project smells like Guerlain’s Rue de la Paix. I made this discovery after reading a passage in a Leonora Carrington book, in which one of her characters has a scent reminiscent, the narrator says, of Rue de la Paix. Curiosity led me to order a small, expensive sample. At my first inhale, I realized that my current protagonist would have this as her scent.

    Given the little that I know about this scent, it surprises me a little bit that this character would have it as her own. In order to better understand my character, I’d like to better understand this scent and others that might be similar or related, both scent-wise and historically. I’d be grateful to be pointed in a direction (or directions) to learn (and smell) more. August 19, 2019 at 11:28am Reply

    • kpaint: I’ve spent a lot of time on perfume blogs and review sites, as well as having researched and bought lots of vintage perfume (particularly Chanel and Guerlain.)

      This is one I’ve never heard of. Long-discontinued and now rare (and $$$), I’m guessing I’m not the only one! August 19, 2019 at 3:42pm Reply

      • Courtney: Thank you for taking the time to reply. I appreciate your experience and time. It sounds like history and circumstances may leave the reasons behind this character’s connection to this scent a mystery.

        I’ll keep digging, nonetheless, out of curiosity. August 19, 2019 at 3:49pm Reply

        • kpaint: Sounds like a good mystery! Good luck with your sleuthing. And a perfume rabbit hole is never a bad one to fall into 🙂 August 19, 2019 at 3:51pm Reply

    • Hamamelis: Hi Courtney, this is what is described about it on another perfume blog:
      Rue de la Paix in vintage EDT form unfurls with sharp bergamot/citrus topnotes and dewy florals. There appears to be a crisp green floral accord just below the surface (muguet, perhaps?) and a shimmering peach-like aldehyde (that is not too far removed from that used in Mitsouko) in the opening. It is a rousing opening, but one crafted with a very measured hand (it is not as imposing as, for example, her aldehyde-rich floral younger sister Liu. But then Rue de la Paix, like the gentry who visited there, is perhaps more stately and refined). A lush rose heart and scattering of white florals furnishes the perfume with an appreciable air of femininity before the drydown reveals a very enjoyable bitter leather and musky base.
      This is a perfume that embodies the vibrance of a Parisian cobbled shopping street, awash with colour and vivacity; and indeed one worthy of resurrection. August 20, 2019 at 7:06am Reply

      • Courtney: Ooooh – this gives me a lot to go on. Thank you very much! August 20, 2019 at 11:02am Reply

  • OnWingsofSaffron: Hello everyone,
    I rather like patchouli perfumes and have in my collection Lutens‘ Borneo, Patchouli from Santa Maria Novella as well as Patchouli Antique from Les Nereides—all definitely powerhouse patchouli scents! And though I love the stuff, I am also aware that many do not. That sadly stops me from dousing myself in no-nonsense patchouli.
    Therefore, I was pleasantly surprised to smell Diptyque‘s Tempo, a slightly tamed patchouli yet spiced with maté which somehow underlines the greenish-herbal aspect.
    Have you smelled Tempo and what is your verdict? Thanks and best August 19, 2019 at 11:49am Reply

    • Rakasa: Sample Kintsugi from Masque Milano. Vanina Muracciole incorporated Patchouli Coeur threading thru the structure — think of it as a thoroughbred of a Patchouli. I’ve

      watched several patchouli haters fall in love with Kintsugi (myself included) while many patchouli lovers became equally enchanted. Patchouli Coeur is a fractional distillation where the most camphor-like, musty aspects are cut off, and the main character of the raw material is magnified to its purest, gentlest, refined elegance. That alone would have been a great success, but with Kintsugi VM took up the challenge of crafting a “chypre” without traditional elements or structure. She not only
      succeeded but also managed to create a fragrance many report among the very finest fragrance they will ever smell in all of 2019. Uniquely lovely — nothing else resembles it. August 19, 2019 at 12:29pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: Wow! That sounds more than intriguing—will go on my „must try“ list. Thanks Rakasa. August 19, 2019 at 3:15pm Reply

    • kpaint: I have. I quite dislike it, though not as much as I detest Fleur de Peau, as both have megadoses of Iso E Super which I have a very visceral reaction to. (Though the first 5 minutes of Iso E Super-heavy perfumes always smell divine.)

      I love patchouli and wear lots of powerhouses. It’s never occurred to me that they might offend anyone. While I don’t wear straight-up patchouli oil (hippie style) I smell it in the wild quite a bit and always get a thrill when others wear it.

      Lots of perfumes offend lots of people. Unless I’m going to be in close quarters (airplane, theater) I wear what I like, and only enough to be able to smell myself. And if the sillage follows me around, lucky those who follow in my wake 😉 August 19, 2019 at 3:50pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: I like what you say!
        With other scents I don‘t mind what others think. But with patchouli I have had quite weird reactions: from disconcerted looking around like where the hell is this stink coming from to pissed off, nasty looks when I was „detected“.
        On the other hand: what the heck! So perhaps tomorrow some hardcore patchouli?! August 19, 2019 at 4:24pm Reply

        • kpaint: Do it and waft some my way! I love patchouli in just about all its formulations – green & grassy, rich & dirty, chocolatey, white & clean.

          I wear everything from Angel & its variants to Coromandel & its ilk. Particular loves are Hiram Green Arbole Arbole (smooth, green, aromatic), the Nereides you mention (Nobile 1942 & Eau de Patchouli by Reminiscence are similar.) Both versions (original and Intense) by Molinard are closer to hippie-style and satisfying.

          I bought my husband a bottle of Nicolai Patchouli Intense, which I adore on him. I pick up different facets every time he wears it, though the patch is very much in the background.

          I can’t say I’ve ever had any particular reaction to wearing patchouli-heavy perfumes except from a family friend who smelled me and went on about how much she loves patchouli. I suspect people of a certain age will be very happy to get a whiff of you! August 19, 2019 at 4:36pm Reply

          • OnWingsofSaffron: I also have Patchouli Patch from L‘artisan parfumeur which is somewhat tamer. Must try the Hiram Green though, was quite smitten with his orange blossom scent (have forgotten the name). August 20, 2019 at 1:51am Reply

        • Lydia: OnWingsofSaffron, that made me laugh. I have an almost unlimited tolerance for patchouli myself, and have heard similar comments (accompanied by screwed-up facial expressions of distaste) when I wore some of my spicier “hippie oil” perfumes or unisex woody scents.

          My rule of wearing patchouli and strong incense perfumes has become that if I am going to be in an enclosed space (office, theater, subway, plane) I refrain like Kpaint said, but if I’m going to an event or outside space, well, people who don’t like my fragrance can just move on away from me. After all, I hate most of the chemically modern “fresh and clean” scents so popular in NYC, and I tolerate them with good grace, so they can tolerate mine. :).

          I second the recommendation of Masque Milano’s Kintsugi. I also like Tango (no patchouli in the notes, but quite spicy) and I think Romanza is a challenging but really fascinating scent very much worth a try (but not in an airplane! 😉 ) August 20, 2019 at 12:22pm Reply

          • OnWingsofSaffron: Oh, how intriguing! A second recommendation for Masque Milano. And I just found a store in Cologne which is supposed to sell the range! Well, if that isn’t but a gentle nudge into the direction of the Milanese niche label? August 20, 2019 at 12:56pm Reply

            • Lydia: I hopr you find a winner there!
              There’s a quite nice discovery set offered by Masque Milano, complete with a sort of story of the scents as though they’re all connected in one narrative, that you may find worth the investment if you like the line. It doesn’t include kintsugi, though.
              One suggestion I would make is to try these scents on skin and at different times of day and even different weathers. They’re more complex than most scents, and they definitely evolve on the skin and over time, at least in my experience. August 20, 2019 at 2:04pm Reply

            • Sebastian: What store? Please… Just in case I find myself in Cologne one of these days. August 21, 2019 at 10:23am Reply

    • AnnieA: @OnWingsofSaffron, I think this is turning into a patchouli-positive thread, where everyone thinks you need much more patchouli, not less! With that in mind, I’ll suggest ELO’s Nombril Immense, an elegant and serene patchouli. August 19, 2019 at 10:31pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: 😁 August 20, 2019 at 1:48am Reply

    • Neva: I am not a patchouli lover but I love Tempo. I think that speaks for itself. I even consider buying a bottle for autumn/wintertime.
      The patchouli in Tempo is definitely a playful one. August 20, 2019 at 5:16am Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: Interesting, and that from someone who doesn‘t even love patchouli! Thanks Neva! August 20, 2019 at 11:29am Reply

  • Rakasa: Anyone looking for a new twist going into Fall can’t go wrong with my new spice fave … the Arancia di Sicilia Jean Claude Ellena created for Perris Monte Carlo … retired my eye?! More like JCE’s free to explore the depths of his creativity without constraint, I’d say. Kudos again to Gian Carlo Perris for that wisdom! The blood orange opening is uniquely luscious, perfectly balanced for transition months … while the drydown slides sleekly into masterfully mingled coffee, vanilla, almond, cinnamon & amber. Very well suited for both warm and cool weather alike. August 19, 2019 at 11:56am Reply

  • Ninon: Hello! I would love suggestions of complex lily scents. Something warm would be ideal, but I’m open to other approaches. Thank you! August 19, 2019 at 12:05pm Reply

    • Rakasa: Tom Ford’s Vert de Fleur uses the exploded component parts of Lily-of-the-Valley cleverly, all flying in close formation, with iris nestled in the center. Another fragrance that uses amber smoke continually cycling upwards as a foil to White Lily is Donna Karan Gold, a uniquely lovely mix of Lily and Warm Oriental. The lily I love most is Frederic Malle’s Lys Mediterranee — it weaves salty notes with many lilies (water-lily, ginger-lily, lily of the valley) into a truly radiant lily fragrance that also captures that wonderful powdery rasp all fresh lilies have. August 19, 2019 at 1:37pm Reply

      • Purple: FM’s Lys Mediterranee is my favourite fragrance at the moment. I searched forever and a day for a signature scent, and then realised I can’t be monogamous when it comes to perfume. However, at least at the moment, Lys Med comes close to a signature scent. I reacently got it, so I’m relly looking forward to seeing how it changes come autumn. Not for the better I’m guessing, but the change will be interesting to watch. August 23, 2019 at 10:36pm Reply

        • Rakasa: Maybe not; I still enjoy Lys Mediterranèe pretty much year round, though I will reach for Gold more during the colder months than LM. Substantial, excellent quality lily scents are getting harder to find. Maybe over the next year or two perfumers will rise to the challenge of creating memorable lily scents to give us a few more options. August 24, 2019 at 5:42am Reply

          • Purple: Thank you, Rakasa, how interesting! Even if I’m really looking forward to wearing some warmer, cozier scents in a month or two, I don’t want to put Lys M into total hibernation until spring. Hoping it will be a nice daytime scent to remind of warmer times. 🙂 August 24, 2019 at 4:31pm Reply

      • Ninon: Thank you so much and sorry for the delay. I love Lys Mediterranee, which you describe beautifully. A sample of Donna Karan Gold just arrived. I am not getting a ton of warmth, but will wait till the drydown. Thanks again. August 27, 2019 at 2:33pm Reply

    • Aurora: L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer is lily and incense and also have you tried Cartier Baiser Vole: the EDT is a green lily, sparkling and the EDP has more vanilla, the Essence de Parfum is very plush with even more vanilla, ideal for winter but I think it’s discontinued. August 19, 2019 at 9:26pm Reply

      • Ninon: I tried Passage d’ender years ago and found it too linear, but it may be time to retest. I don’t know any of the Baiser Voles. Vanilla is usually a hard note for me, but I’m curious about the Essence version. August 27, 2019 at 2:34pm Reply

      • Rakasa: No worries. Did you get the EDP or the EDT? Both develop over a much longer timeline than many scents,but the EDT stays on the cool side while the EDP gains more warmth with time. CheckVictoria’s in-depth review if you haven’t already. She describes the longer evolution of the facets of both types of DK Gold superbly. I passed on buying it years ago based on a short test. It wasn’t until my ‘nose’ was more developed that I went back to discover it’s intricate, long development (ultimately chose EDP). Do let me know how it turns out! I love learning the variations in individual’s perceptions, especially as I’m delving deep into learning about accord development these days. August 27, 2019 at 3:12pm Reply

        • Ninon: I got the edp and, I must say, I detect zero development whatsoever! On me, it is a straightforward soliflore, pleasant and a bit fuzzy around the edges. Today was a very warm testing day, so perhaps other facets will come out in cooler weather? August 28, 2019 at 2:26am Reply

          • Rakasa: Yes, I’ve found I have greater appreciation for Gold’s nuances when the weather turns quite cold. Do you find yourself wanting the floral heart to last longer? If so, you may find Gold EDT more to your liking. In the EDP, the richness of the amber and leather nearly completely envelops Gold’s lily heart. Perhaps it’s more accurate to say Gold progresses by entwining its florals with its cycling amber smoke while it moves toward a gently alluring susurration — one that gets more alluring the longer you wear it, in either formulation. I keep forgetting that some folk have come to equate the concept of development with a progression toward a voluptuous enticement. After the floral opening, Gold EDP is more like the caress of a cashmere wrap or silk twining around one’s skin, gently undulating with the EDP’s deeper amber warmth, evolving into well melded tranquility. The EDT twines its lustrous lily sleekness with a sheerer amber such that the lucid, cool floral persists much longer than in the EDP. You might also want to consider the approach a friend uses: spritzing Gold EDT on top of the EDP, on skin. Alternatively, she’ll use the EDP on skin while simultaneously wearing Gold EDT on fabric or a scarf. Scenting fabric will slow/extend the pace at which Gold EDT’s fresh, dry, cool lily progresses toward its tranquil dry down. August 28, 2019 at 2:10pm Reply

            • Ninon: Thank you for the suggestions! I am actually getting little beyond the floral heart. I do wonder if my skin tends to “flatten” scents, as I’ve had this issue before. August 28, 2019 at 9:51pm Reply

              • Rakasa: Happens particularly often w/ very dry, rough skin. First thing to try is daily use of fragrance-free cleansers & moisturizers before use of any perfume; later moving on to even applying moisture on pulse points before spritzing any fragrance. Most effective options for healing the skin’s barrier function(s) while boosting perfume performance are: First Aid Beauty’s Ultra Repair Cream, CeraVe Moisturizing Cream or Zerafite Barrier Repair Moisturizer + their related cleanser(s). Avoid using any moisturizing oils, period, if the oil has a native scent [ie: olive, almond, jojoba, sesame, etc; though Apricot Kernel Oil seems to work with most anything]. Diet definitely also impacts scents/skin: a well balanced South Beach or Mediterranean regimen will help. My skin used to be so ridiculously reactive literally every perfume went bad on me: sour, bitter, foul, you name it … tired lol. But after a mere 3-4 mos of using the above protocols every day: my skin barrier function(s) normalized as reactivity got less and less. Till it stopped, period. Keeping up with the daily regimen(s) will guarantee your skin is always perfume ready — for most anything you crave — always in optimal condition. Unless you sweat — a lot? Which I doubt, as that usually magnifies scent. Just fyi, ingredients that react poorly to sweat/hyperhidrosis include things like blackcurrant leaf while summer citrus and grass scents will perform very well, even deepening, on sweaty skin. Taught myself skin biochem — in self defense ;). So hooked, have moved on to studying the secrets of scent accords and perfume structure. August 29, 2019 at 3:08am Reply

                • Ninon: This is incredibly interesting. Thank you! I do believe my skin is dry…I will experiment as you suggest. August 29, 2019 at 7:45pm Reply

    • Debby: Lily perfumes are my holy grail, too. You might enjoy Tom Ford’s Shanghai Lily, didn’t work for me as most TF’s don’t for some reason, but it’s definitely complex. I second Donna Karan Gold, it’s quite green, but has a lovely warm sweet dry down. Most photorealistic lily I’ve found so far has been Lush Death and Decay. August 21, 2019 at 6:41pm Reply

      • Rakasa: Agree Ford’s Shanghai Lily is a hot mess! Will very much look forward to any news on new Lily scents. I did a very deep research dive last month for same and didn’t come up with much of anything of quality to add to the above save the reminder about Antonio Alessandria’s Fleurs et Flammes which has a distinct horchata almond note along with the lilies (and can be hard to track down). Like you I loved Baiser Vole, at first, but I must be anosmic to several of the musks in it because after a far too brief opening wafts away BV became completely undetectable to me. Thx for the Lush tip, though; will track it down to try. Note sometimes when I crave a lily scent but don’t have one to hand, a vivid while still ethereal tuberose can quiet the craving: Tuberosis from the Laboratorio Olfattivo Masters Collection is a new one that hits that mark particularly well. August 24, 2019 at 6:06am Reply

        • Ninon: I’ve never had luck with Tom Ford 🙁 I will look into Fleurs et Flammes (wonderful name!). Tuberose is tough for me, but I love gardenia–perhaps I should keep sniffing in that direction. August 27, 2019 at 2:36pm Reply

          • Rakasa: Re Gardenia — while catching up on some reading today I looked up LT‘s reviews. DYK Luca Turin rates gardenia “as the most irresistible & impossibly pretty [scent] on earth”? He goes on to rate Estée Lauder’s Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia as “Real Gardenia” with 4 Stars (Recommended). He gives the same rating to Elie Saab: Essence No. 2 Gardenia while calling it a Woody Gardenia and “really great classical work, [that is] for once, arguably worth the money”. August 27, 2019 at 5:06pm Reply

            • Ninon: Thank you, I will be sure to sample these. August 28, 2019 at 2:21am Reply

      • Ninon: Thank you! August 27, 2019 at 2:35pm Reply

        • Rakasa: Welcome. Remember all too well, I swore, literally, tuberose was verboten for me too! Has only been a couple of very new releases with much different DNA (by exceptional perfumers) that have begun to win me over. Would love to hear what you find that works out for you. August 27, 2019 at 5:08pm Reply

          • Ninon: Actually, I do love Moon Bloom and I’m eager to test Night Flower. August 28, 2019 at 2:27am Reply

  • Debi Sen Gupta: I am travelling to Vienna and Munich this November. Can anyone recommend a good perfume unique to these places. Or at least the origin should be in the respective countries.

    Don’t have any particular type in mind. Thanks in advance. August 19, 2019 at 12:11pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: I‘m from Germany and while I could suggest a couple of Berlin based brands I‘m not sure as to Bavaria, let alone Austria. So on a different tangent: a well loved mountain flower is the Gentiana—in German: Enzian. All over the Alps this together with Edelweiss is emblematic. So perhaps Hermès‘ „Gentiane blanche“? August 20, 2019 at 1:58am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Wait, I do have a soecific tip: There is this German brand called Frau Tonis Parfüm: https://www.frau-tonis-parfum.com/unsere-duefte/
      And she sells a snent called „München“. Mind you, I‘ve never smelled it! August 20, 2019 at 2:03am Reply

    • Sebastian: If country of origin is enough, then from Germany there are J. F. Schwarzlose of Berlin and of course Sven Pritzkoleit (recent winner of an Arts and Olfaction Award for a truly gruesome concoction, in my very subjective opinion).

      With regard to Vienna, there is more specific information on perfumes with a Vienna connection on the Online Travel Guide for Vienna: https://www.wien.info/en/lifestyle-scene/trendy/scents-from-vienna August 20, 2019 at 9:17am Reply

      • Debi Sen Gupta: Thank you – this sounds very interesting. I like the smell of grapefruits to August 22, 2019 at 5:18am Reply

  • Melanie: Hello!
    Would anyone have a recommendation for something similar to Deneuve? I recently got a small bottle and absolutely love it. I apologise that I am not gifted in describing scents.
    Many thanks in advance and have a wonderful week!
    Melanie August 19, 2019 at 1:34pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Melanie: I suppose Deneuve is hard to match, and I have never smelled it, I know it’s one of these unicorn perfume with a cult status, however I will list some green chypres and green perfumes to see if they can provide you with an alternative.

      My favorite green chypre of all: Jean-Louis Scherrer, the EDP has become harder to find, the EDT is available for a very reasonable price on FragranceNet at the moment
      Estee Lauder Private Collection: often it’s not on the counter to try, ask a SA for it, it is a lovely green chypre
      Green/Floral: Jacomo Silences is well loved on this blog since Victoria reviewed it and it is very affordable, very green
      And maybe Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur too
      Hope this will help you a little bit. August 22, 2019 at 8:39am Reply

    • Aurora: I see on Fragrantica that a number of people voted it as similar to Carthusia Lady, I am not familiar with Lady but I know and own some perfumes from that house and they are very good, so I thought I would add this perfume to the list. August 22, 2019 at 8:55am Reply

      • Melanie: Thank you for all of the recommendations, Aurora! I’ll begin my search. Cheers! August 28, 2019 at 7:57am Reply

    • Ninon: I long to sniff Deneuve, but have never gotten my hands on it. I have heard that DSH’s Vert Pour Madame is similar…when I tested it years ago it was too animalic for me. August 28, 2019 at 2:30am Reply

      • Melanie: Thank you for this recommendation. I have no idea if my little bottle of Deneuve has been altered by time, but, for me, it is like the Vert pour Madame description: evocative of the chic and sophisticated 70s and (very early) 80s. I will have to check it out. Cheers! August 28, 2019 at 8:08am Reply

  • Amanda Bell: Fun! I have a ton of perfume that I love in the bottle but don’t love on me. I’m not sure I can pinpoint exactly what makes a perfume a love for me. The Sexiest Scent on the Planet IMHO by 4160 Tuesdays and I died a little inside when Target discontinued the Sonia Kashik scents because I adored Red Promisia. I have the Adam Levine scent that’s close but not the same. I love spicy and warm scents generally and don’t mind them a bit dirty – sandalwood, Jasmine, and even true honeysuckle if not too potent are favorites. My nose turns up at anything that seems too “perfume-y” though (maybe it’s just the more complex scents? I might just be a simple girl…). I want to love Shalimar, for example. I like all the notes, but I just get a Linda Evans-Dynasty-shoulder pads vibe from it that’s a huge turnoff for me. I love something warm and sexy and comfortable that makes someone want to lean in close and sniff your collarbone. Both TSSOTPIMHO and Red Promisia have evoked that response and I never get tired of them. Would love some new favorites! August 19, 2019 at 2:00pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I had Red Promisia body wash and loved it! I have Adam Levine For Her and I like that a lot too. Have you tried Samsara? I don’t have it but it shares some of the same notes as Red Promisia. August 19, 2019 at 8:02pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Definitely try everything on your skin before buying because we all have perfumes that don’t work on our skins. It’s disappointing, but that’s just the way it is.

      Meanwhile, I’ll try to recommend a few things. Chanel Bois des Iles is a gorgeous sandalwood scent, a little bit spicy. For jasmine, maybe you would like Songes by Annick Goutal. It’s a warmer, richer jasmine with some sandalwood and incense and vanilla.

      I also love spicy warm scents. One idea might be Noir Epices from Frederic Malle. For me it’s like a spicy skin scent.

      Maybe I’ll think of more later.

      Shalimar is a difficult scent for many people, so don’t feel bad for not liking it. Perfume-y probably has to do with certain ingredients, such as aldehydes or maybe chypre style or something like that. August 19, 2019 at 11:02pm Reply

      • Amanda Bell: Thanks so much for the replies and suggestions. Agree about trying the scent on… I have a sample graveyard on my vanity to attest to that. It’s been a fun exploration though to learn about what I like and what works with my chemistry. I’d love to isolate what it is that I don’t like that I sense in perfumes that otherwise seem to be full of notes that I like. Aldehydes may well be it. I’ll have to see if I can narrow it down. I do know that I love iso-e super (but can only smell it for a few moments before I become anosmic) and detest prominent vetiver and powder notes. I’m not big on green and water notes in general. And then there are the exceptions like You or Someone Like You that’s flowery and minty but I love anyway (maybe the musk or the hedione?)
        Thanks again – can’t wait to try some new scents! August 19, 2019 at 11:44pm Reply

        • Lydia: “A sample graveyard” – what a funny, perfect description! 😄
          I think we all must have those. (And one person’s graveyard is another’s lively wishlist.) August 20, 2019 at 2:45pm Reply

    • Chris in Oakland: You might try the unisex or “masculine” scents with sandalwood/spicy/floral notes, which may not have the shoulder pads vibe! 😄 Chanel Egoiste or Diptyque Tam Dao, or the even dirtier Cartier Declaration. Or perhaps a vetiver floral such as Diptyque Vetyverio, or the rose/green Diptyque l’Ombre Dans l’eau (can you tell I like a certain house? 😉 August 22, 2019 at 5:57pm Reply

  • Armando: I recently discovered Mitsouko, and I’m obsessed. Is there anything similar a guy could wear too? August 19, 2019 at 2:41pm Reply

    • Klaas: Hey Armando, even though Mitsouko is marketed towards women, many a man has worn it since its launch. Sergej Diaghilev and Charlie Chaplin were famous fans. By todays standards it is perfectly unisex. If you love it, just wear it! August 19, 2019 at 3:05pm Reply

      • Armando: Thank you for your response!
        I don’t believe it is possible to assign a gender to a smell. But ever since trying Mitsouko on me for the first time, I want to try as many classic chypres as possible! August 19, 2019 at 6:16pm Reply

        • Klaas Backx: Hey Armando, in that case, eternaly beautiful Chanel pour Monsieur is a classic, classic masculin chypre. Also in this case, vintage is better, the new formulation doesn’t last…..Hermes Bel Ami is another legend, but I don’t know what the modern version smells like.

          Azemour les Oranges is a fruity, contemporary chypre, very, very juicy and refreshing. And for something completely different, you could try Chypre Mousse by Oriza Legrand. A green, mossy, chypre-bomb!! Enjoy!! August 20, 2019 at 6:55am Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: Mitsouko is perfect for everyone! Do try to get the vintage stuff, very easy on Ebay. It is loaded with oakmoss, and well that just makes an old fashioned chypre. I think Victoria has one or more posts on chypres, so you might want to browse through those? August 20, 2019 at 2:08am Reply

        • Sebastian: With Mitsouko, I think you don’t need to go the trouble and expense to find a vintage bottle. Among all those debatable things Thierry Wasser did at Guerlain, one must give him credit for saving Mitsouko and restoring it to full splendor. Just get a bottle of the current formulation (since 2016) and you’ll be happy. August 20, 2019 at 4:46pm Reply

          • OnWingsofSaffron: Nope, sorry! The inkiness is utterly missing, and anyway I have bottles and bottles of old stuff to keep me going till the Seas swamp the Earth! August 21, 2019 at 1:31am Reply

            • Klaas: Indeed, that inkiness…….the magic of Mitsouko!! August 22, 2019 at 7:12am Reply

    • kpaint: Not sure how close it is to Mitsouko (I’ve not smelled either in a while) but YSL Champagne (renamed Yvresse) is a peachy chypre. Probably an older bottle would be best, hoping for some real oakmoss. August 19, 2019 at 3:56pm Reply

      • Armando: Actually, it is very close. Yvresse doesn’t have as many spices as Mitsouko (no cloves or cinnamon), but the ripe peach smell is right there in both. I’ve known Yvresse for many years, as it is one of my mother’s favorite. Funny enough, the reason Mitsouko became an integral part of my olfactory life is because it never worked on my mom (it goes crayony on her) and she gave me her full bottle. August 19, 2019 at 6:20pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Mitsouko is a classic chypre scent.

      Try 31 Rue Cambon from Chanel, which is a beautiful modern chypre, more on the subtle side. I have a male friend who loves and wears this.

      You could be brave and try Amouage Jubilation 25 for women, which is a gorgeous, bold chypre.

      Another idea is Aromatics Elixir from Clinique, which would suit a man very well. It may even be the current formulation smells much like the older ones, but I’m not sure.
      Most of the true chypres are vintage and have real oakmoss in them. You could try tracking down some vintage Coty Chypre to see where it all came from. Some other classics are Rochas Femme and Cabochard by Gres, which smell better in older formulations. August 19, 2019 at 11:13pm Reply

      • John Luna: I was dubious about the current formulation of Aramis (a close relative of Azurée and Cabochard) but it has really grown on me as the bottle has opened up. No oak moss but tree moss, and a very vintage feel… August 21, 2019 at 11:37pm Reply

  • MK: Hello, I’m looking for a new tuberose fragrance. I love big white florals. Fracas is a favorite, but it really doesn’t smell like tuberose to me. Carnal Flower is beautiful, but I’m looking for something a bit richer (and less green). Any suggestions are welcome! August 19, 2019 at 9:53pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: Try TnT from PK Perfumes! Major tuberose. August 20, 2019 at 7:14am Reply

      • MK: Thank you for your response! August 20, 2019 at 9:39pm Reply

    • Zuzanna: Try Moon Bloom by Hiram Green. It’s my favourite tube (Fracas is a zombie now), a masterpiece, elegant and perfectly blended, full of contradictions: creamy, sexy, but aloof and cold at the same time, like white flowers seen through a frozen glass. The only trouble is that it smells best in lower temperatures, so recently I was looking for a lush flower bomb best for heat. To no success. And I have tried a lot! I almost got a master degree in white flowers perfumes. If you dont’t mind the bubblegum note, try Profvmvm Roma, Tuberosa and Sabbia Blanca. The new Laboratorio Olfattivo Tuberosis is very interesting, but it’s quite green (less than CF though). I haven’t tried Kiss My Name by Monegal, judging by the notes, it may be interesting, too. August 20, 2019 at 11:26am Reply

      • MK: Thank you for your response! August 20, 2019 at 9:39pm Reply

      • Jodee: I second Moon Bloom by Hiram Green. Exquisite! August 21, 2019 at 2:56pm Reply

      • Klaas: Zuzanna, did you ever try Drama Nuui from Parfumerie Generale in warm wether? It is a white-flower stunner!! August 22, 2019 at 7:28am Reply

        • Zuzanna: I don’t remember. I have certainly tried it, but not sure about the weather. Thanks, I will do it! (Unfortunately) we still have high temperatures in Warsaw. August 22, 2019 at 7:36am Reply

    • Lydia: Hi MK,

      Tubereuse Absolue by Perris Monte Carlo.

      If you do a search on Victoria’s blog you can also find lots of interesting tuberose perfume suggestions in previous “recommend me” threads. August 20, 2019 at 1:32pm Reply

    • Lydia: PS And of course Victoria’s blog has a lot of great recommendations if you use the dropdown menu below to search on tmthe Tuberose note.
      She has an especially informative post from June 15, 2005 called “Tuberose : Perfume Ingredients and Notes” which includes 3 lists: tuberose soliflores, perfumes dominated by tuberose, and additional fragrances containing tuberose. (Just remember that a lot of those scents have probably been reformulated since 2005, although hopefully without losing their tuberose character!) August 20, 2019 at 4:13pm Reply

      • MK: Thank you for your response! August 20, 2019 at 9:40pm Reply

  • spe: Hi – I am looking for a soft floral scent with a bit of powder or musk- definitely modern – something a young, busy mom would wear. Easy to access. Thank you! August 19, 2019 at 11:13pm Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: You might like some of Narciso Rodriguez’ fragrances, which are easy to find in stores like Sephora and online. Narciso and Narciso Poudree are both florals with musk; the Poudree is more powdery. The Narciso Rodriguez for Her line also combines florals with musks very nicely, and it has many flankers so you have plenty of choices. It even comes in a hair mist, which might suit you during your busy days! August 20, 2019 at 7:27am Reply

      • spe: Thank you! Will check out that brand at Sephora August 20, 2019 at 8:47am Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Spe,

      I recommended this line above for another reason, but if you want a soft floral scent with a bit of powder or musk, you might really enjoy the Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes.

      There are currently 2 lines, one based on a soft musk note, one on a vanilla note, and most of them are very pretty and feminine and a bit powdery, but in a modern way. I like them more and more as I keep trying them.. You can order sample packs of both lines on the website (I recommend trying both packs because the musk and vanilla scents have a lot of overlap and you could find a favorite in either). August 20, 2019 at 12:37pm Reply

      • spe: Thank you, Lydia. Wasn’t aware of these! August 20, 2019 at 3:05pm Reply

    • Fleurycat: Chanel No. 19 Poudre doesn’t get a lot of love, but I find it a very nice everyday light powdery iris floral scent, compatible with being a busy mom. Hermes Hiris might appeal, as may some of the lighter Chanels. Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige is a powder bomb on the other hand (I usually have to temper it with another fragrance like Jasmin de Nuit from The Different Company). Frau Tonis and Veilchen (violet, spicy) and Sminta (rose-iris-lily) are both powdery, but only available in Germany. They do sell reasonable sample sets online though. August 20, 2019 at 5:13pm Reply

      • Fleurycat: I meant the perfumes Veilchen and Sminta by perfumer Frau Tonis. August 20, 2019 at 5:17pm Reply

        • spe: Thank you, fleurycat, the chanel is readily available for testing here. Not familiar with Frau Tonis. They sound lovely. August 22, 2019 at 9:50am Reply

      • Old Herbaceous: I like No. 19 Poudree very much, and I agree with your description! I adore No. 19, and Poudree is beautiful in a different way. August 22, 2019 at 9:58pm Reply

    • Nancy Chan: Hi Spe, I would recommend Cacharel’s Noa. It’s a lovely comforting soft floral, and inexpensive. August 21, 2019 at 6:50am Reply

      • spe: Hi Nancy, Noa isn’t available here to test, unfortunately. August 22, 2019 at 9:51am Reply

    • Nancy Chan: Spe, forgot to add Flower by Kenzo, should fit the criteria. Best of luck in your perfume search. August 21, 2019 at 7:19am Reply

      • spe: Oh, yes, and the flankers – forgot about Kenzo. Thank you. August 22, 2019 at 9:53am Reply

    • spe: Found it – Chanel No.5 L’Eau.
      Thank you everyone who helped me out! August 22, 2019 at 12:46pm Reply

      • Old Herbaceous: Ooh, I’m a fan of No. 5 L’Eau! Glad it suits you, it is lovely. Enjoy! August 22, 2019 at 9:59pm Reply

  • soweluyy: Is there a lavender fragrance recommended with a touch of scent? August 20, 2019 at 5:07am Reply

    • Old Herbaceous: I love Guerlain’s Jicky in the eau de toilette version. Beautiful lavender, lighter than the eau de parfum. August 20, 2019 at 7:39am Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Soweluyy,

      I like DSH’s Passport to Paris, a spicy, sweet, lavender floral. August 20, 2019 at 1:19pm Reply

    • Aurora: Also Caron Pour un Homme, lavender and vanilla as is Last Maison de last Camille Camille Sauvage de Madagascar and I second Nicky but you have to enjoy an animalic drydown for this one. August 21, 2019 at 5:10am Reply

      • Aurora: OK, reposting as the autocorrect on my phone clearly didn’t want me to convey what I meant 🙂
        It is not Last Camille but La Maison de la Vanille: Vanille Sauvage de Madagascar (another lavender/vanilla) my favorite from the line and I was seconding Jicky obviously not Nicky. August 21, 2019 at 11:41am Reply

    • Klaas: By Kilian does a great lavender fragrance called A Taste of Heaven (Absinthe Verte). It truly is all about lavender, embellished with wormwood, vanilla and tonka. I am not a fan of vanilla in fragrances, but it works wonderful in this one. You can only buy the refills now, which is just as well as their spay bottles are way overpriced. Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire is another wonderful lavander based fragrance, but with lots more going on (rosemay, anise and leather), it has a nice ‘old school’ vibe but is definitely a modern fragrance…..

      Jicky and Caron Pour un Homme are the classic lavender fragrances….. August 22, 2019 at 8:13am Reply

    • Klaas: Oh, and I’ve been wanting to try Patricia de Nicolaï Amber Oud. It has lots of lavender, apparently, combined with oud…….such a unusual combo, so could be interesting?? Let me know if you get to try it before I do, I’m so intrigued… August 22, 2019 at 10:03am Reply

  • Laura: Hi,
    At the beginning of this summer I have got here great recommendations for a sparkling summer perfume. I ‘ve chosen Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte, it was, and it still is, a great companion during the summer…
    Now, I am looking towards autumn, and I am a little sad, because my all time fall signature, Balmain Ambre Gris is empty now and its production has been discontinued.
    So, I am looking for something to replace my beloved Ambre Gris.
    I’ve tested several scents, but none gives this warming combo of spices, amber and benzoin.
    What would you suggest to try? Thank you! August 20, 2019 at 7:58am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Laura: Maybe it would be worthwhile to check the Hermes Merveille series, if you haven’t already, they have ambergris with a salty edge and orange: my favourites are Eau d’s Merveille perfect for summer, and Elixir. August 21, 2019 at 4:42am Reply

      • Aurora: It’s Eau des Merveilles, of course, my autocorrect is the culprit. August 21, 2019 at 12:00pm Reply

    • kpaint: If you can find a sample, Nobile 1942 Ambra Nobile is delicious. It’s rich & round with an almost candied edge. For lighter fare, Dior Mitzah might be worth a try. Teo Cabanel Barkhane and MFK Grand Soir are also gorgeous. August 23, 2019 at 2:18pm Reply

  • Rosie: I would love recommendations for big, warm, spicy, glamorous, comforting perfumes! I want an outrageously confident perfume that envelops me like the protective embrace of an eccentric fairy godmother who just arrived in a limo. I tried Givenchy Ysatis the other day, and the combination of rum, sandalwood, and dusty old books hit the spot. Further recommendations would be very welcome!

    This is new territory for me as my tastes tend mostly towards cool elegant irises like Chanel No. 19 and Prada Infusion d’Iris, and gentle but characterful scents like Jo Malone Mimosa and Cardamom, which I’ve been wearing all summer. August 20, 2019 at 9:16am Reply

    • Sebastian: When I hear big, warm, spicy I think “oriental”, but as you mention Ysatis and grandmothers, that’s not what you seem to have in mind. Perhaps you’d like some of the old powerful scents from the 70’s and 80’s, such as Opium, Poison, or Samsara. August 20, 2019 at 9:37am Reply

      • Rosie: Thank you ! I’m happy to try Oriental scents too! I’ll try the “powerhouse” scents you recommend. August 20, 2019 at 10:21am Reply

    • Klaas: Big, warm, spicy, glamorous and comforting…. Coco Chanel comes to mind. Or L’Air du Désert Maroccain from Andy Tauer! It’s the warmest perfume I know…..it actually radiates!! August 20, 2019 at 9:49am Reply

      • Rosie: Thank you! I’ll look forward to trying both of these! August 20, 2019 at 10:23am Reply

        • Klaas: Andy Tauer perfumes can be hard to find, but you can buy samples sets via his website. His fragrances our quite outspoken wich makes you either love or hate them. The only thing is that you have to order a set of 5 samples….Besides L’Air du Désert Marocain, I can recommend Incense Extreme, Une Rose Chyprée (read Victoria’s wonderful review!), Le Maroc pour Elle (very bohemian!) and his Oudh. But there might be another one that tickles your fancy, of course……Happy sniffing! August 20, 2019 at 11:20am Reply

    • Sebastian: In a more modern vein, there is Tyrannosaurus Rex (Zoologist). Starts with coffee, smoke, then there are woods, something sweet, and very lightly floral. The smoke starts out really aggressively, so this wouldn’t fit the “protective” part of your request. But it is certainly big and warm. Quiets down after 3 hours or so. As brash as the 80’s, and generally working on the principle to overwhelm whom you cannot persuade. August 20, 2019 at 9:56am Reply

      • Sebastian: In order to avoid giving a wrong impression of this interesting perfume, I should have added that the dry-down is really wonderfully comforting. Experiencing this perfume is like a journey from turmoil to peace. August 20, 2019 at 10:03am Reply

        • Rosie: It sounds wonderful, I love the idea of coffee, smoke and woods. August 20, 2019 at 10:22am Reply

    • Fleurycat: Chanel Coco, Boucheron, Bellodgia (poorly reformulated) and YSL Opium come to mind, all 80’s Orientals. Also, Chanel Bois des Isles…more subtle. Prada Double Dare has a double dose of Cardamom and you just might give Le Labo Iris 39 a try. I like it because while it is definitely an iris dominant scent there is sweetness as well as musk (as in skin scent) that makes it more of an enveloping comfort scent. I’m tempted to spray my clothing with it …and often do. I recently tried a scent with cardamom which I loved (not too masculine leaning), and which would, I think, fit your interests, but I will try to get back to you if I remember. August 20, 2019 at 5:35pm Reply

      • Rosie: Thank you! I’ve made a start with trying Chanel Coco yesterday and today, and it is lovely to wear! It feels very warm and glamorous. Le Labo 39 sounds fascinating as well. August 22, 2019 at 2:31pm Reply

        • fleurycat: Rosie, I’m so glad you enjoyed wearing Coco! I agree, it does have a warm and glamorous feeling! I hope you will also try Le Labo Iris 39. I loved Orientals, spice, and vintage fragrances in a big way in the past but have been discovering cooler, softer scents, many with Iris as a central note. What I love about Iris 39 is that it marries a somewhat sweet, creamy aspect with the cooler more aloof iris. August 22, 2019 at 6:27pm Reply

          • Robert: For an iris trip, try World of Blue by the House of Matriarch. August 25, 2019 at 7:24am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Rosie: There is also Kenzo Jungle l’Elephant, it’s a spice fest and for softer spices I really enjoy Hermes Voyage mostly cardamom and Omnia the original one in the brown bottle – chai tea (it’s discontinued, but you could get a sample and it’s still available at some discounters). August 21, 2019 at 4:50am Reply

      • Rosie: Thank you Aurora. Jungle l’Elephant, what a terrific name! It sounds so dramatic! August 22, 2019 at 2:33pm Reply

    • spe: Oh, yes, and the flankers – forgot about Kenzo. Thank you. August 22, 2019 at 10:04am Reply

    • spe: Oops, incorrect spot for above comment.

      Perhaps Hermes Amazone or L’Heure Bleue? Also Serge Lutens and Amouage lines. August 22, 2019 at 10:06am Reply

  • Sebastian: I was wondering the other day what cultural differences there are in getting complimented on a perfume, or simply being asked what you are wearing.

    For the sake of discussion let’s exclude friends, family and partners. I’m interested in interactions with (relative) strangers. I live in Germany, and speaking with friends who have been complimented, and also from my own experience, we basically never get that kind of attention from Germans. I did get it from Eastern Europeans. From what I read on perfume blogs, it seems to happen often in the US.

    So what is your experience getting compliemnts from strangers? Have you identified any cultural/regional differences? August 20, 2019 at 9:45am Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Sebastian.
      You always ask such interesting questions in Victoria’s posts’ comments.

      I would be interested to hear responses to this too. My NYC experience is that I NEVER get any feedback at all verbally. The only way I can tell if people like my scent is that if they find it pleasant, they move closer, and if they don’t, they move away. I’ve only lived in big cities and I think people are especially sensitive to boundaries in crowded places. Commenting on perfume is somehow perceived as too intimate. Smells, after all, are not as separate from our messy human animal selves as clothing or hair styles are – perfumes mix with our natural scents, so commenting on them can seem quite personal. Also, in this age of worshiping “clean” fragrances, it seems like mentioning someone’s perfume at all might be perceived as a veiled criticism that someone is wearing too much of it. August 20, 2019 at 12:52pm Reply

      • Lydia: PS Actually, and interestingly, the only compliments I’ve received in NYC on my perfumes in the last few years were also from Eastern Europeans! You may well have identified a distinct cultural difference here.

        I’m looking forward to other comments/ibservations. August 20, 2019 at 12:57pm Reply

      • OnWingsofSaffron: Oh, how I agree to each and every remark you made. I live in Cologne (1 mio. citizens), and everything you say for NYC is exactly the way I experience it here in Germany! August 20, 2019 at 1:00pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Hi Sebastian, what an interesting topic! As a guy living in Germany I can relate to what you are saying. As far as I am concerned, there are two things:
      1) A man wearing perfume will—if ever—only be complimented by a women. By a man: never! I think in our Western culture, it is far too intimate, to gay. To the average straight man I think it would be absolutely mortifying to be complimented by another man on his scent. If a straight man, a stranger, were to compliment me (never has happened btw), my first thought would be is this an homophobic put-down?
      2) I also think there is a puritan aspect to this. North of the Alps and outside of France it seems to me that perfume/fashion is perceived to be too frivolous to be taken seriously. So what would people think of me if I compliment them on their scent? In Mediterranean countries, I feel this is not the case.
      I’m sure there are exceptions, but it is what I experience. August 20, 2019 at 2:12pm Reply

      • Sebastian: That’s interesting, both you and Lydia using the phrase “too intimate”. For me, perfume is a sort of fun hobby, and noticing how other people smell is just a part of it. I may have lost some sensitivity to the emotional content of smell. (My wife regrets that, BTW: she likes to identify people with their smells, and every time I wear something unfamiliar, I become a stranger to her again.)

        You also make the connection to (male) homosexuality. What about women complimenting each other on their perfumes. Would they make this connection as well? I rather doubt it.

        Is it easier for women to compliment men than the other way around?

        With regard to that Eastern European thing, I have found (personal experience from job assignments) that relationships between the sexes tend to be more egalitarian than in the West (esp. Germany). I also found that communication was often indirect, not so much with a focus on information exchange or problem solving, but with a view to engaging someone, building a context for interaction. Perhaps personal remarks, including perfume compliments, just fit better into this general model.

        Purely conjectural, all of this, but I just like this sort of speculation. August 20, 2019 at 5:52pm Reply

    • Klaas Backx: Hey Sebastian, I’ve lived in France for many years and it is quite common to discuss fragrance there. I wore Chanel pour Monsieur at the time (pre IFRA), and used to get lots of compliments by both male and female ‘strangers’.

      I now live in Amsterdam and, like in Germany, compliments are much, much less frequent. I do compliment strangers and they always, always like it! We usually spend a couple of minutes discussing the pleasure of wearing scent and then continue our own business. So, I think we should start a new trend……just say someting nice! August 22, 2019 at 8:28am Reply

      • Sebastian: Yes, we should, by all means! Create some positive cultural change.

        And isn’t it strange? Everyone loves a compliment, but they don’t give them. Like you, I have never met anyone like OnWingsofSaffron, who would be suspicious of it. August 22, 2019 at 8:35am Reply

        • Klaas: If people wear perfumes that are strong enough to be notice by others, then they should’t be offended by a compliment, don’t you think? August 24, 2019 at 5:22pm Reply

    • Chris in Oakland: Definitely an interesting question! I live in the US: San Francisco Bay Area. It was, actually, smelling a perfume repeatedly, but feeling unable to ask people, that started me into exploring fragrances. (I finally determined during a visit to Barney’s it was Le Labo Santal 33! 😄) In California and also Oregon, where I was grew up, personal space and privacy are highly valued. A friend who lived in Japan believes there’s a big influence of Japanese culture on the west coast, and also from Scandinavian immigrants as well. Practically, for me, I feel it’s not often polite to inquire about or compliment people on their smell. Two other factors: I’m a gay man, myself, and I also agree with the sentiment that it’s risky to compliment other men. Secondly, in the US there’s been a lot of positive change around what it means to respect women in public, and for many men, undoing the historical power imbalance between genders means being much more cautious about public conversations that may be unwanted (even if the initiator is trying to be “respectful”.) August 22, 2019 at 11:17pm Reply

      • Sebastian: I talked to our woman receptionist today. She said she would welcome compliments about her perfume. But she said she has stopped complimenting others, because some of the men would blush. So they wouldn’t necessarily dislike it, but not know how to deal with it. However, as we were already in conversation about this, she then went on to tell me what a nice, masculine smell I was wearing. So perhaps I really should be more hesitant giving compliments out of the blue. August 23, 2019 at 8:48am Reply

        • Chris in Oakland: Interesting! As opposed to a complete stranger, I’d be less hesitant to comment to anyone with whom I had a relationship (co-worker, acquaintance, etc.). Alas, I don’t personally know anyone who cares much about perfume! However, I do know some women who dislike when male co-workers comment on their clothes, whereas, I doubt they would mind if I did so. It all depends on the relationship… (but of course this has less to do with your original question). It would be great if we could all just wear a little button that says “Ask me about my perfume!” 😀 August 23, 2019 at 5:27pm Reply

        • Klaas: Ok, reading your comments I realized that I only ever compliment women on their perfumes. I am also a gay man, so now I wonder if it would make a difference if I were straight. Would the compliment be percieved as less innocent and therefore be welcomed with less enthousiasm? Or even be considered rude? Hmmmm, it would probably be a classic case of le ton qui fait la musique…….

          In France I did compliment men (both gay and straight) on their perfumes, but again, in France perfume is much more in the culture than in the Netherlands. August 24, 2019 at 5:20pm Reply

        • OnWingsofSaffron: Hi once again, I wanted to chime in once again. I hope I don’t sound strident and I am only commenting on my experiences. So here goes: I do think it makes an enormous difference in talking about personal experiences (a) where you go through life and (b) who you are, going through that life. I mean are you a man or a woman; are you gay or straight; are you cis or trans; are you of colour or white; young or old–all depending on where you live.
          If you live in a country with predominantly one ethic group which is quite traditional and patriarchal, and you yourself are none of those!, then you’re experiences will be quite different to those people who fit in like a glove. Therefore, for gay or trans persons to compliment straight male strangers on something intimate is a bit of a risk. And going through life with one homophobic slur say fortnightly, then you just do wonder how a random “compliment” is actually meant.
          If you have not made any of those experiences due to who you are, the whole idea wouldn’t have crossed your mind and you might find it somewhat dogmatic. August 25, 2019 at 5:53am Reply

  • Lydia: I have been reading reviews of Chanel’s Allure Sensuelle and Guerlain’s Shalimar Souffle de Parfum and trying to decide if I’d like them or not. Some reviewers say they’re spicy and floral, and others seem to suggest they smell aquatic, thin, and cold. I would love some more information from those of you who’ve tried them.

    Another, separate, question: I love Lancome Maison Parfait de Roses. Despite the fact that it falls firmly into the category of girlish fruity candy-ice cream florals, I can’t stop smelling my scent strip. I wish it weren’t so luxury-priced.
    I don’t like the *general* category it belongs to, and don’t need the broad range of candy floral suggestions, but if any of you have come across a near-dupe of that exact scent (ideally one a lot cheaper), I’d llbe grateful to hear it. (I don’t know why Parfait de Roses rises above all the others, but it does for me.) August 20, 2019 at 1:49pm Reply

    • Aurora: I can answer for Shalimar Souffle, on my skin it’s a musky lemon vanilla, not a powerhouse for sillage but lasts a long time on my skin. I liked it enough to get a bottle when it came out, and I find it very easy to wear any time of day and occasions (it doesn’t have much Shalimar DNA at all, it could be a stand alone fragrance.

      About Parfait de Roses, I haven’t tried it, your description was enticing so I checked Fragrantica, in the ‘reminds me of’ section it is compared to Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Rouge so perhaps you would be interested, the thing is it might not be a better deal $$$wise. August 21, 2019 at 11:52am Reply

      • Lydia: Thanks Aurora!

        Musky lemon vanilla sounds quite promising, especially for warm days (as long as the musk isn’t strongly white musk). I never completely took to Shalimar for some reason, so I don’t mind that it isn’t too closely tied to it.

        The reviews of Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Rouge sound wonderful, so I’ll definitely look for it. August 24, 2019 at 3:39pm Reply

  • niapniap: It’s always been my motto to stand out among the crowds without being too bizarre and it applies to scents as well. Currently I’m wearing Le Labo Thé Noir 27 and other perfume I like are CdG Blue Santal and Cologne 352 despite the latter is still way too pricey for me. Is there anything else that exudes similar olfactory sensation (or mood) like them? August 21, 2019 at 1:29am Reply

  • Rossignol: Vetyverio Eau De Parfum Diptyque perfumes

    really pleasant and fresh at the beginning , you feel the calmness at some point, great for evenings I believe August 21, 2019 at 7:53am Reply

  • Kaitlin: Hello, all! I’m trying to think of a good fragrance for my fiancé. He likes the smell of grass, most fruits (especially pineapple and lemon), BBQ pork, neroli, and clean laundry. He wears Aqua Velva aftershave and his favorite fragrances on me are Armani Acqua di Gioia and Thierry Mugler Angel. He wouldn’t like anything too, too bold, especially since he works in an office environment. Also, he is new to fragrance so I just want to dip his toe in! Thanks for any advice! August 21, 2019 at 5:15pm Reply

    • Debby: Sounds like he might enjoy the legendary Creed Aventus, or one of the many clones if that’s a bit spendy. My husband actually said it has a BBQd meaty quality! August 21, 2019 at 6:44pm Reply

      • Sebastian: Creed Aventus (fruity, smoky) is copied so much, it must be that everyone wants to smell like everyone else. And you’ve got to be careful when you see bottles offered on the internet for cheap prices: there are not only clones, there are also fakes.

        One good alternative is “Nero” (Mazzolari), a bit more acerbic than Aventus and only half the price.

        These kinds of scents obviously fit modern tastes. For my part, I find that interest in Aventus fades pretty quickly. This is not destined to stay. But then I’m not at all into fruity scents for men, so my opinion doesn’t really count. August 22, 2019 at 3:27am Reply

        • Debby: I’m not buying, my husband pretty much only wears orientals, he only tried it to see what the fuss was. But for Kaitlin’s request for someone who isn’t a perfumista and doesn’t work in an environment where challenging scent would be acceptable, plus his favourite smells, it was my first thought for obvious reasons. August 22, 2019 at 7:03am Reply

    • Sebastian: You’re looking for a BBQ pork smell that’s office-friendly and not too bold? This is not made easier by Acqua di Goia (fresh, clean, soft) and Angel (sweet, fruity, big) being miles apart.

      Seriously, for just dipping your toe in, I’d go with one of the readily available classic men’s fragrances, but avoiding the denser of them.

      “Eau Sauvage” (Dior) might be a good start: lemon, rosemary, lavender, woods. Mind you: “Eau Sauvage” is not the same scent as just plain “Sauvage” with the Johnny Depp advertising. Although I think that might work well for your husband too, as it is fresh, clean, totally office-friendly, and doesn’t change much on your skin.

      Then there is “Eau pour homme” (Armani): citrus, jasmine, lavender, spices, woods, patchouli. And “Terre d’Hermes”: less fresh, but a real modern classic, legions wear and love it.

      I’m at a loss for classic men’s perfumes with a grassy note. However, I’ve always though that the original “L’Eau d’Issey” for women smelled grassy, and is very well wearable by men. August 22, 2019 at 3:10am Reply

      • John Luna: Guerlain’s Vetiver has a very pleasant and office-friendly grassiness, both in its initial fresh citric bite and its soothing, ‘cut hay’ drydown… August 23, 2019 at 6:34am Reply

    • AnnieA: @Kaitlin, for fruity grass I immediately think of Biehl PC01, if it’s still around. A nice summer fragrance. August 22, 2019 at 3:36pm Reply

    • kpaint: Kaitlin – my husband also likes Angel on me, and I love A*Men (Angel for Men) on him 🙂 He likes some of the flankers; my favorite is the original.

      We also both love Chanel Boy. It’s not at all challenging, very barbershop clean, and would be perfect in an office environment. August 23, 2019 at 11:52am Reply

    • limegreen: I don’t know about office friendly but I had to comment on the BBQ pork!
      The Naomi Goodsir fragrances smell like bonfires to me and her Cuir Velours smells like BBQ meat to me.
      In all seriousness, my husband won’t wear any fragrance but he allowed me to spritz his shirt with Heeley Oranges and Lemons Say the Bells of St. Clement when we were in Rome. He quite enjoyed it and it was just lovely on him. Maybe give this neroli a try for your fiance — it has more longevity than Tom Ford Neroli Portofino. August 23, 2019 at 10:31pm Reply

  • Linh: Hi, may I ask has anybody here tried Maison Francis Kurkdijan Amyris? I am considering buying it after reading about its scents – assuming that it would be a perfect perfume to use in summer – but there isn’t any MFK branch in my country and it’s pretty expensive, so I want to lower my risk a bit by asking first? 🙂

    Thanks in advance! August 21, 2019 at 10:54pm Reply

  • John Luna: I was dubious about the current formulation of Aramis (a close relative of Azurée and Cabochard) but it has really grown on me as the bottle has opened up. No oak moss but tree moss, and a very vintage feel… August 21, 2019 at 11:41pm Reply

    • John Luna: Whoops — sorry! That was a reply to a different post…I second the Aventus suggestion, but also, if your fiancé likes the smell of lemons, you might consider Dior’s classic Eau Sauvage, which has a brilliant lemony opening and settles into something very elegant (with a touch of fruitiness as well) and certainly office appropriate. August 21, 2019 at 11:44pm Reply

  • Erin: Hi.
    I’m looking for a new to me fragrance. In my twenties and thirties I wore florals – Jasmin, Muguet, and even tried Fracas. Diorissimo was my go to for a long time. Then I fell into a mommy-induced I’ll just smell like my body lotion slump.
    The thing is – I found this great smelling body lotion that has been discontinued. It was made by Soap and Paper Factory’s Farmacie imprint and was called Saffron Rose. It smelled clean and fresh with just a slight hint of floral underneath.
    This past spring I paired it with Diorissimo (which doesn’t smell as good on me as when I was younger – 55 now).
    Lately, I’ve been wearing The Cobra and The Canary by Imaginary Authors. I like that it doesn’t smell like anything else and its lemony-ness is good for summer. I like the dark hint underneath as well. I also kind of like their Cape Heartache even though it is a bit strong on first application. Imaginary Authors has an interesting take on scents – they really change a lot over the day and they have a lot of layers.
    I like green and fresh and a bit floral (light rose, peony, hyacinth, lily of the valley). I dislike powdery, water, and heavy. I don’t mind certain spices like cardamom and I’m partial to smokey. I don’t like girly but I do like flirty.
    Thanks for any suggestions you have! August 23, 2019 at 7:32pm Reply

    • Cybele: try

      Parisienne YSL for flirty,
      Cristalle au Vert and Bel Respiro both Chanel for green, and maybe you like Everbloom by Shiseido August 23, 2019 at 10:34pm Reply

      • Erin: Thank you. I love Cristale (on other people, not on me) so maybe the vert will work. August 24, 2019 at 2:43pm Reply

        • Cybele: Today I tested Carolina Herrera L’Eau. I was very pleasantly surprised, I think you should try it! August 25, 2019 at 12:05am Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Hello Erin, I cannot come up with one single suggestion. What I would recommend—should the have time and be at the right place—is to discover some new (perhaps niche?) perfume ranges. If you live in the USA (amongst many others, Slumberhouse, Aftelier) or in Europe (Bogue, Sammarco) there seem to be so many new and excellent perfume houses. Why don’t you try and find out which range attracts you, and then invest in a couple of discovery testers and try your way through?
      I’m also sure there are other non-niche houses which may be compelling, like perhaps Atelier Cologne?
      A third way might be to choose a country with a good perfume maker: Japan: Parfum Satori or perhaps Germany: Schwarzlose, Berlin (https://schwarzloseberlin.com/en/) or Frau Tonis Parfüm (https://www.frau-tonis-parfum.com/en/). August 24, 2019 at 2:14am Reply

      • Erin: wonderful!
        Thank you so much. August 24, 2019 at 2:46pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Erin: Yes, Diorissimo has been reformulated, the EDT has less longevity than before and the extrait de parfum but it is pricy are still quite like the original and there is eBay for vintage (Diorissimo keeps really well).
      Cybele’s recommenations seem very good, but I will add for green scents you might enjoy Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur, Diptyque Eau de Lierre, Oriza L Legrand Foin fraichement coupe (these 3 are green and grassy) and Jacomo Silences (floral green) and also the jungle green Cacharel Eden, very weird but I find it addictive and Chanel Sycomore but only if you like vetiver.
      For citrus aromatic perfumes what about Eau de Guerlain: citrus, green, spicy and chypre elements and also Acqua di Parma does great citrus aromatics in the Blu Mediterraneo line: for example Arancia di Capri which also has a very well done hint of sweetness (but do sample all the line, they are very well done) or there is Diptyque Oyedo, very special, a burst of citrus or Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine very realistic orange.
      For florals, there is Guerlain Chamade, do you know it? Some green along with the hyacinth, rose and lily of the valley you list, but it is also very plush and opulent almost heavy, it can be worn in winter, or Annick Goutal Grand Amour which is almost a copy of Chamade, a good soliflore peony is Penhaligon’s Peoneve, and for a flirty perfume (of course we all have our notions of flirty) I find it in Cacharel Noa l’Eau, fruity (apple and cassis) floral (with peony) on the very pleasant and light Noa musk base.
      I was very interested by your description of Imaginary Authors, the only one I’ve heard of is The Soft Lawn for the linden flower note. August 24, 2019 at 10:57am Reply

    • Aurora: Oh and I forgot to mention Guerlain Idylle with your favorite flowers, all there: do try EDT and EDP, the EDT is more evanescent very good in summer and the EDP is deeper. August 24, 2019 at 11:31am Reply

      • Erin: Oh oh oh. Such a wonderful list!!!!
        Thank you.
        The cobra and the canary has: lemon, orris, tobacco flowers, leather, hay fields, and asphalt.
        Cape heartache has:
        Douglas Fir, pine resin, western hemlock, vanilla leaf, strawberry, old growth forest, mountain fog. August 24, 2019 at 2:56pm Reply

        • Aurora: So glad you like the list. What original notes for The Cobra and Cape Heartache.
          Next time I go perfume browsing I will seek them out. August 24, 2019 at 10:21pm Reply

    • Lydia: Hi Erin,
      Have you ever tried Oscar de la Renta’s Live in Love (original version)?

      It’s a fresh green-citrus-floral and the notes include lily of the valley, hyacinth, rose, and bergamot.

      I have a sample and find it to be quite soft and green, evocative of an early spring garden. I think it has a nice balance for this type of perfume and it’s not too strong.
      It’s widely available at online discounters. August 24, 2019 at 4:53pm Reply

  • Purple: Hi! I recently tried PG04 Musc Maori, and although I’m not sure of the start, after some time it was so nice I realised I need a chocolaty, warm, cozy perfume for the autumn and winter. I’m not completely sure about PG04 MM however, so pleas do you have any other suggestions for me, so I can sample a broader range of fragrances? For the record I’ve also tried Mugler’s Alien Muse, which was OK, but not as good as PG04 MM. I really love the idea of Mugler A*Men Pure Havane and Pure Tonka reading about them, but they seem to have been discontinued (all suggestions are welcome, but I’ll don’t have the stamina for a vintage perfume hunt right now). I don’t mind sweet, as long as it’s an interesting sweetness. August 23, 2019 at 10:56pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Purple: yes, I think the A*Men were limited editions as well as some Angels like The Taste of Fragrance which might have been contenders for you, Muse is more about praline.
      Here are a few perfumes with chocolate notes: Serge Lutens Borneo 1834, Molinard Patchouli Intense (they both build on the chocolatey aspects of patchouli), Serge Lutens Five O’Clock au Gingembre (but only if you like ginger and cinnamon too), Arquiste Anima Dulcis (spicy chocolate, Victoria’s favorite) Missoni Gianduia is my favorite chocolate perfume but it’s discontinued unfortunately.
      Hope this will help you a little bit to compare with the PG. August 24, 2019 at 11:14am Reply

    • Aurora: And one last choice: Cacharel Anais Anais Premier Delice, original because it’s chocolate over flowers, I quite like it, it’s different, just thought I would mention it. August 24, 2019 at 11:33am Reply

  • Anouk: Hi,

    I am looking for a fragrance that is similar to Byredos ‘Bibliothèque’ fragrance but without the plum sirup in the topnotes which is a little too strong for me.

    I am also looking for a lovely fleur d’oranger scent.

    And I love the ambroxan in Juliette has a gun Not a perfume, but the fragrance itself isn’t worth the money. Can anybody recommend me a fragrance built around ambroxan, but without vanilla?

    Thank you so much! August 31, 2019 at 5:17pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Anouk: I am not familiar with Bibliotheque so can’t make suggestion but I too love fleur d’oranger: I would recommend Fragonard Fleur d’Oranger, I wear it a lot (there is now an intense version but I haven’t tried it), also l’Artisan Parfumeur Histoire d’Orangers which is rated highly by Victoria (and it has ambroxan) and Van Cleef & Arpels Neroli Amara.
      For Ambroxan have you considered testing Escentric Molecules No 2? It is pure ambroxan with no vanilla.

      Hope this will help you a little bit. September 12, 2019 at 5:54am Reply

  • Ana Köbig: First of all, thanks for this great and very helpful Thread.

    I´m searching for months a new signature, can you help me please?

    I work in a very formal multinational company, I like chypres and florals but I don´t want to smell dated. At the same time I woud like to have a perfume with presence, that sounds clever/intellectual wwihout being sad/melancholic and intrusive.

    My signatures in the last yeras were: Paloma Picasso EDT, J´adore, Joy, Cristalle, Allure EDP, Eau du Soir, Hiris, Narciso Rodriguez for her EDP.

    I thank you very much in advance for your help.

    Kind Regards,
    Ana September 9, 2019 at 5:09am Reply

    • Aurora: Dear Ana: perhaps a modern chypre like Chanel 31 rue Cambon would fit the bill, it is definitely work appropriate or a more classical one – while still modern – Acqua di Parma Profumo.
      And what about Chloe Nomade, a very well done contemporary chypre?
      Hope you will get more answers and that you will find a new signature scent 🙂 September 11, 2019 at 12:09pm Reply

      • Ana: Many Thanks for your suggestions.

        I find Chloe Nomade a bit too harsh, but I will check 31 Rue Cambon and acqua di parma. I remember once a friend of mine was wearing acqua di parma profumo and I enjoyed very much.

        Kind Regards,
        Ana

        T September 12, 2019 at 5:59am Reply

  • Audrey: Thank you for your blog! I was recently gifted Jo Malone’s Mimosa and Cardamom body wash, creme, and EDP, and I was delighted to read that you enjoy it as well! The fragrance has some longevity when the three products are layered. However, it is extremely sweet…maybe too gourmand? Can you recommend a JM EDP that might layer well with Mimosa and Cardamom?

    A few of my favorite scents are Sarah Horowitz Perfect Veil, Flower by Kenzo, and (years ago) Moonlight Path by Bath and Body Works.

    Warmly,
    Audrey September 17, 2019 at 10:47am Reply

  • MJ: Thank you for your blog and for this opportunity to discover new fragrance!

    When Fresh released Pear Cassis back in the early 2000s, I loved it. So sad when it was discontinued.

    I also love: BYREDO BLANCHE, BYREDO PULP, BYREDO PALERMO, SERGE LUTENS NUIT DE CELLOPHANE, SERGE LUTENS LA VIERGE DE FER, HEELEY OPHELIA, HEELEY NOTE DE YUZU + HIPPIE ROSE, OLENE, DO SOM.

    I dislike really musky, incense, leather, smoke.

    Would love to get some recommendations from the perfume brain hive! Please and thanks. September 22, 2019 at 10:56am Reply

    • Aurora: A quick note, I forgot another pear perfume that you might like to try if you haven’t already: Hermes Un Jardin sur le Toit and also, I just saw that there is a new thread of Recommend Me a Perfume today and you might wish to repost there, you would get more answers this way 🙂 September 23, 2019 at 12:31pm Reply

      • MJ: @Aurora, thank you for your recommendations and also for your suggestion to post on the newer post. Really appreciate it! Will also come back once I have a chance to sample some of your suggestions.

        Thanks you again, MJ September 24, 2019 at 2:38am Reply

  • Aurora: Hello MJ: You seem to like perfumes with fruity notes. Have you tried Cacharel Noa L’Eau, it’s a lovely apple and cassis, one of my favorites for summer, perhaps also YSL In Love Again and Hermes Amazone, these 3 might fill the void left by Fresh Pear Cassis.

    As you seem to like fruity scents I’d also recommend Clinique Calyx if you haven’t sniffed it already. September 23, 2019 at 1:49am Reply

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