June 2006: 30 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The beauty of Slatkin Persian Lime Blossom & Mimosa lies as much in the perfection of the facets that come together to form this sunlit and vivid composition as in its unpredictable treatment of the floral theme. Unlike the more classical mimosa etudes a la L’Artisan Mimosa pour Moi and Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaique, Persian Lime Blossom & Mimosa does not play up the powdered almond richness of the note. Instead, the perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, who created the fragrance for Slatkin & Company, turns the velvety softness of mimosa into the delicate precision of Venetian lace woven out of the golden threads. …

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Fabulous Fragrances of the World.Info is offering 24 hour access pass for $19.95. The database created in collaboration with Michael Edwards and Jan Moran is a veritable mine of information that any fragrance fan would find exciting. For more information, you can also see my article about a tour of Fabulous Fragrances of the World.

Update: Fabulous Fragrances of the World.Info is no longer offering this service.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

What is the scent of love? Is it radiant and smiling like Jean Patou Amour Amour, smoldering and seductive like Calvin Klein Obsession, or intoxicating and ravishing like Guerlain Chamade? For Annick Goutal, the answer is clearly the latter, and Grand Amour serves as a beautiful example. From the tender kiss of hyacinth and honeysuckle to the warm embrace of vanilla and amber, Grand Amour maintains the breathless, exhilarating sensation of surrendering oneself to an emotion that can no longer be contained. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Pure White Linen is a younger sister to Estée Lauder classic White Linen, a fragrance that should be mentioned in the course of any discussion of great American perfumes. The elegant simplicity of the composition created by the perfumer Sophia Grojsman in 1978 is fascinating. While White Linen appears to be built in bold blocks of aldehydes, florals, woods, amber and musk, the entire arrangement is so beautifully balanced that one cannot but admire its unconventional form. Pure White Linen weaves the elements of the original in such a manner that the resulting fragrance retains the classical Lauder character while nevertheless possessing the modern aesthetic sensibility. …

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The July/August issue of Perfumer & Flavorist (vol 31, no 7) is featuring a great article about Maurice Roucel (p. 16-18). “When a great perfumer puts the genie in the bottle, the magic—the ‘it’ factor—is almost always a direct result of the character and life experience of the perfumer. This is certainly the case for Maurice Roucel, whose skills, intelligence and humility are a pleasure, in person or out of a bottle,” writes Michelle Krell Kydd as she leads the reader into the story of Roucel’s unique magnolia signature and his passion for the art of perfumery. For some like me who is an ardent admirer of Roucel’s work, the article is a wonderful discovery, helping me to learn more about the perfumer and person whose Hermès 24, Faubourg, Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist have touched my heart and captured my imagination.

The same issue also contains an interview (p.20-21) with the natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, who discusses how she started upon the path of natural perfumery, where she derives her inspirations and the affinity between flavor and fragrance. There is also a compilation of 151 noses to watch (p. 22-31). It is overall an excellent issue. The P&F requires a yearly subscription; however, individual articles can be obtained from a searchable database at the P&F magazine Article Archives.