Does the world need another rose perfume? I’ve posed myself that question on many occasions, as the variety of roses keeps increasing, but I invariably end up saying, yes. Jasmine, orange blossom and tuberose, the so-called white flowers, may seduce me, but rose makes me happy. Light and shimmery or dark and velvety, this blossom in the perfume bottle is my gateway to fantasy. Enter the new rose to tempt me, Ann Gérard Rose Cut.
A jeweler based in Paris, Ann Gérard has already three perfumes to her name, Cuir de Nacre, Perle de Mousse, and Ciel d’Opale. All three were created by Bertrand Duchaufour, the perfumer whose name graces many niche offerings. Rose Cut is also his composition, and in creating it, he and Gérard were inspired by a diamond-cutting technique which gives stones a special radiance.
Radiance is the main feature of Rose Cut, but its character is soft and clinging. It’s less a sharp diamond than velvet that you want to stroke against your cheek. Before others notice the trail around you–impossible not to!–you feel the texture of Rose Cut. It starts out with a light fizz (pepper) and then transforms into a soft, creamy rose. The rose is center stage, with all of its violet and raspberry nuances, and if it were sweeter, it could be a bonbon.
This doesn’t happen, because Rose Cut is flavored with incense ashes and smoky cinnamon. It feels indulgent, but a whiff of Christmas Mass incense gives it a restrained aura. It’s as unexpected as the lighthearted character that Rose Cut retains all through its development. Imagine a less serious Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin or a more bookish Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, with similar impressive tenacity.
Rose Cut is well-crafted and distinctive enough to stand out in the crowd. But if you already have perfumes like Lipstick Rose, La Fille de Berlin or even L’Artisan’s Traversée du Bosphore (another of Duchaufour’s creations), you may not find Rose Cut an essential wardrobe addition. But if you find Lipstick Rose too bold and La Fille de Berlin too flat, then Rose Cut is a possible alternative.
Ann Gérard Rose Cut includes notes of aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, roses, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oak wood absolute and benzoin absolute. 60 ml Eau de Parfum, $165.
Sample: Ann Gérard