As we recently talked about uplifting perfumes, we discovered that fig inspired scents can be terrific mood-boosters. So, Elisa reviews another fragrance with a fig theme.
Fig fragrances usually fall into one of two camps: There’s the woody, leafy-green variety, best represented by Diptyque Philosykos and L’Artisan Premier Figuier (both composed by Olivia Giacobetti). Then there are the jammy, sticky figs, like Mugler’s Womanity and Byredo Pulp. I enjoy both styles, but I had started to feel that there wasn’t much point in trying new fig scents, since they’re always so familiar. We already own a bottle of Philosykos. Fig is fig, right?
Wrong, as it turns out – Capri Forget Me Not from Carthusia, an aromatic, citrusy fig fragrance released in 2012, has reminded me that there are always new ways to use old materials.
The opening salvo is so bright and crisp it’s like throwing open the windows in your hotel room overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. (Not that I’ve ever had the chance to live out this fantasy.) When I first sprayed this perfume on paper, I had no idea what the note list was, but three notes ring out loud and clear: lime, fig, and mint. The lime is zingy and zesty, and puts me in mind of Fils de Dieu from Etat Libre d’Orange. But the mint note is the real surprise; it’s a vanilla-inflected mint – think white Tic-Tac’s, or mint ice cream. Breathe it in and you’ll swear your mouth feels cold. You wouldn’t expect this to make sense with fig, but it does – like the fig material stemone, mint is both bracingly green and sweet, and both have a cooling effect, like a breeze.
This is a light, sheer perfume – if you spray it on in the morning, it’ll be mostly gone by afternoon. But it’s so fresh and cheerful, it seems best suited to morning light anyway. In a line mostly known for its classical scents (some of the formulas supposedly borrowed from 14th century monks), it’s refreshing to find something so inventive, and beautifully done at that.
Carthusia Capri Forget Me Not is available in a 50 ml bottle from Lucky Scent for $140. It includes notes of lemon, lime, mandarin, fig, mint, violet, eucalyptus, bucchu, cyclamen, hyacinth, jasmine, artemesia, vanilla and peach. The nose is Laura Tonatto.
This review based on a PR sample sent by the company.