July 2006: 21 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The most compelling aspect of Serge Lutens’s fragrances lies in their exaggerated character, whether it is the tannic bitterness of oak in Chêne, the hay sweetness of coumarin in Chergui or the mineral chill of iris in Iris Silver Mist. Chypre Rouge does not deviate from the jewel encrusted opulence that one can glimpse in other Lutens compositions; however, the finished result reflects a blend of various elements that can equally well recount the story of Scheherazade as well as that of Hänsel und Gretel. …

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Aquolina is releasing a new fragrance for men called Blue Sugar. Its female counterpart Pink Sugar has been a top sellers for the Italian company, as has its luscious gourmand composition Chocolovers. Blue Sugar features notes of mandarin, bergamot, star anise, ginger, lavender, licorice, patchouli, coriander, cedarwood, vanilla, tonka bean and caramelized sugar. It is slated to appear in November (via press release).

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

At a time when the definition of sexy is either a pink fruity-floral or a sweet gourmand, Agent Provocateur, a lingerie brand with proclivities towards controversy, takes a stroll on the dark side with its eponymous release. Created by perfumer Christian Provenzano in 2000, Agent Provocateur revels in the quintessential rose, patchouli and oakmoss chypre duskiness, without apologizing for its sultry form. Their Eau Emotionnelle released this year offers an Eau de Toilette version of the original fragrance, but where the Eau de Parfum growls, Eau Emotionnelle gently murmurs. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

As much as I like Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances, from the vanilla turned into sultry darkness that is SacreBleu to the warm mulled wine tartness of Pour Homme, I have to admit that a few pose a frustrating dilemma—they smell far better on paper than they do on skin. The issue is not so much a matter of body chemistry, but rather that the warmth of the skin accelerates their development, forcing evaporation to occur quicker than one would have wished. My biggest disappointment of late is Mimosaïque—on the blotter, it opens up with a green milky almond tinged mimosa that recalls vintage Caron Farnesiana. On the skin, one enjoys fifteen minutes of mimosa glory before one is left with a sharp, thin musk redolent of inexpensive shampoo. The fact that the bottle resembles a hair care container does not help matters much. …

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I love learning more about people who create fragrances. It is even more enjoyable when one gets to see not just a professional, but a person, with their likes and dislikes, passions and interests. Which is why I was glad to discover a fascinating video interview on Made by Blog with perfumers Clement Gavarry and Laurent Le Guernec, who worked together on Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely. The film is created by the New York based photographer and video artist Miss Liz. The most interesting aspect of the film is the glimpse it offers into the personality of each perfumer, which makes one understand what drives their creative process and what serves as a source for their inspirations. Made by Blog is a project started by Sacré Nobi, exploring a novel manner of fragrance creation.

Painting: Pablo Picasso. Man’s Head with Red Nose. 1965.