March 2007: 16 posts

Cosmetic World issue No 10 has an article about the plans for the launch of John Galliano line of fragrances. The renowned fashion designers John Galliano will put his name on a perfume collection, which is to be released in 2008. Given my admiration for Galliano’s vision and daring tailoring, I only hope that these talents will translate into an innovative and cutting edge fragrance line.

Photo of John Galliano from women.sohu.com.

by Michelle Krell Kydd

As children we grow accustomed to the aromas and flavors of the kitchen as they are presented to us. They form a palette which we draw upon, coloring future experiences of taste. I recall the smell of my mother’s broiled chicken—the distinct mingling of garlic salt, sweet paprika, fatted chicken skin and fire. The scent would waft out from the kitchen, eventually sneaking out into hallway of our fourth floor apartment like a genie being slowly released from its bottle. Formative taste memories permit seduction by flavor repeatedly and sofrito teases and taunts like no other aromatic preparation I have ever encountered. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

After first inhaling Enlèvement au Sérail from Parfums MDCI, I envisioned a slender figure wrapped in voluminous furs. The image was rendered in sepia tones, misty and soft, hinting at the tenderness of this classical composition. It immediately evokes the sumptous sensation of the grand French perfumes that makes me feel as if I am gliding across a mirrored ballroom dressed in a silk gown. When a fragrance makes one feel like a princess out of a Tolstoy novel, or perhaps, a Ballets Russes dancer, how can it be ignored?

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Had I not seen the label on the bottle, I would have assumed that Angels of Florence was a new flanker for Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise—the bright, fresh white floral. While Beyond Paradise is a fine fragrance on its own terms, it was disconcerting to discover the similarities with Santa Maria Novella’s newest fragrance (albeit, without the characteristic radiance of Beyond Paradise.) In my opinion, the very essence of niche should be its departure from the mainstream, but it seems that to a greater and greater extent many niche releases are merely copying best-sellers from department stores. By way of example, if you enjoyed the warm and voluptuous Armani Code for Her but felt compelled to spend more money, your wish could be fulfilled by NellyRodi Scentfactory Fleur d’Oranger and Le Labo Jasmin 17. Bond No 9 Nuit de Noho offers a niche version of Thierry Mugler Angel. Even an avant-garde line like Comme des Garçons has toned down its daring act of late. …

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After presenting a feature on the classics (please see Part I and Part II), I left the subject with a promise to return with a list of fragrances of more recent vintage. In other words, modern classics. Given the increasing rate of releases and decreasing market life of fragrances, any perfume that remains on best-selling lists for more than 3 years seems to automatically receive the title of a classic. When creating my list, I decided to limit myself to fragrances created since 1990. The following fragrances are not necessarily best-sellers (there are indeed a few resounding market failures among them such as Yves Saint Laurent M7), but I am compelled to highlight them nevertheless for their creativity and innovative accords. In some cases, I chose to include them simply because they are beautiful. Admittedly, this list is by no means exhaustive. …

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