Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Apothia L Eau de Parfum is the chord of iris fading into the green musky sweetness. Iris is the scent of chill, and its fascinating interplay of rooty and floral facets finds a range of expressions in the perfumery, from the smooth richness woven into the emerald tonality of Chanel No. 19 to the rooty iciness pervading Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. In contrast to the melancholy aura of many iris based compositions, L Eau de Parfum explores the brightness of iris, enlivening its proud stance with a scintillating spicy ornamentation. As much as I love the aloof elegance of many iris perfumes, the unsentimental and vibrant iris is always a welcome encounter, especially given the fact that such explorations are relatively rare.
The iris is rendered as vegetal, much like its elegantly fresh variant in L’Homme de Coeur; however while the latter allows the note to retain a silvery hue, much like the thin crisp foil shrouding the half-opened iris buds, L Eau de Parfum is accented with the ambery sweetness and the green radiance.
The soft musky drydown rounds out the crushed stems and petals effect, retaining the subtle verdancy against the muted backdrop of amber. Although L Eau de Parfum is marketed as a feminine fragrance, it eschews the obvious sweetness or floral richness in favor of transparent green notes. Even the more substantial base accord does not overwhelm the delicate floral vignette of the heart. While L’Homme de Coeur will always retain its place among my favorites, L Eau de Parfum is definitely a fragrance for those with a penchant for iris rendered in a manner that is anything but conventionally feminine.
L Eau de Parfum was inspired by The L Word, the Showtime series, and from what I understand the viewers of the show were asked questions that subsequently contributed to the creation of the perfume. Apothia L Eau de Parfum includes notes of angelica, juniper, cardamom, violet leaf, Florentine orris butter, vetiver, sandalwood, musk and crystal amber. The fragrances and samples are available directly from Apothia.
Please see reviews of other iris focused fragrances:
As4 “Curated by Colette” Three as Four Parfum
Caron Narcisse Blanc
Cerruti 1881 Collection
Christian Dior Homme
Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver
Frédéric Malle Iris Poudré
Guerlain Attrape-Coeur / Guet-Apens
Guerlain Après l’Ondée
Guerlain L’Heure Bleue
Guerlain L’Instant Eau de Noël Iris Millésime
Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme
The Different Company Bois d’Iris
Photo: iris in the snow, from www.srgc.org.uk/ bulblog/050203/log.html