Hermes Cuir d’Ange : Perfume Review

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Cuir d’Ange is the most recent addition to the Hermès Hermessence collection, a line of fragrances sold exclusively at the house’s boutiques. The idea is to capture the nuances of famous Hermès leather, which smells of flowers and musk. The perfumer behind it is Jean-Claude Ellena, a master of the most ethereal and delicate compositions, and as you would expect, Cuir d’Ange, Angel’s Leather, stays true to its name. It’s wispy and sheer, as if the leather that inspired it was polished to remove any traces of animal funk and made to smell like someone’s clean skin.

cuir hermes

Cuir d’Ange is pure comfort. Although I like to think of myself as someone unafraid of the raunchiest animalic scents, my favorite leathers in perfume bottles are soft and cuddly. I’m more in the camp of Bottega Veneta than that of Robert Piguet Bandit on most days. So, here you go. For this reason, the first time I smelled Cuir d’Ange, I felt that I discovered my ideal leather–creamy, suave, and mild. On the other hand, if you want the odor of a beaver in heat and don’t wish to settle for anything less, Cuir d’Ange will strike you as wimpy and bland.

From the start, it makes me think of vintage cold creams and violet scented soaps, a whiff of my grandmother’s glamorous vanity table packed with porcelain jars and crystal bowls filled with powder. This tender, wholesome interlude is underpinned by the tangy, dry leather, which remains distinctive throughout, even if very mild. The dryness of leather is tempered by the milky almond notes and lots of musk.

While Cuir d’Ange has plenty of subtle nuances, from a distance it feels like a blend of musk and leather, both well-scrubbed and with hints of soap bubbles. There is not a sharp edge in sight, and the perfume is a creamy, beige wrap that has the effortless elegance of something impeccably crafted.

The only drawback I can find with Cuir d’Ange is its negligible lasting power, a common complaint with Hermessence perfumes. To get anything approaching the idea of a light cologne, I have to spray several times, making sure to add an extra spray on my clothes, and even then I’m not likely to kill anyone with my sillage. This is undeniably frustrating, and it makes this expensive perfume even more costly, since you’ll go through the bottle quickly. So, consider yourself warned and be sure to test Cuir d’Ange on skin before buying.

All of this being said, I can’t help falling hard for Cuir d’Ange. The thing is that Cuir d’Ange doesn’t smell like a perfume but rather like a second skin. Your own skin but better.

Hermès Cuir d’Ange includes notes of heliotrope, hawthorn, violet, narcissus and musk. It is number 12 in Hermès’s Hermessence collection. Available in Hermès boutiques. 100 ml Eau de Toilette/€185.

If you have other recommendations for mild, soft leathers, please share them. I’m sure I’m not the only leather wimp in town.

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113 Comments

  • Cornelia Blimber: This is also certainly not a beaver in heat (Lol!).
    Leather is not my favourite, but I like Gomma and Cuir de Russie. Bottega Veneta is too subtle for me, but I like Kelly Calèche (must be edp, not edt). September 17, 2014 at 7:15am Reply

    • Victoria: No, it’s as far from a beaver in heat as can be imagined. 🙂
      Today Cuir de Russie is much more subtle of a leather than it used to be, but I prefer it this way. I notice more iris and more woods, always a good thing in my book. September 17, 2014 at 8:04am Reply

  • rainboweyes: I prefer soft leathers too! My favourites are Cuir de Nacré and Moulin Rouge but I’m looking for some more subtle leather scents to add to my autumn rotation.
    I can’t wait to try Cuir d’Ange but the longevity issue sounds very frustrating… September 17, 2014 at 7:26am Reply

    • Victoria: It’s frustrating, since it’s so beautiful while it lasts.

      Cuir de Nacre is another favorite! September 17, 2014 at 8:03am Reply

    • Poupoune: You must give it a try, because it really depends on skin… On my Cuir d’Ange have a really good longevity (but a contrario, Cuir de Nacre vanishes in a few hours) September 17, 2014 at 10:23am Reply

      • rainboweyes: Yes, I’ll try it, definitely. I have a lot of scents with no spectacular sillage (28 La Pausa, Hiris, Osmanthe Yunnan) and try to improve their longevity by spraying into my hair or on a scarf. September 17, 2014 at 3:34pm Reply

  • Aurora: It doesn’t get much love anywhere, so I hang my head in shame and admit: I adore Diorling.

    Yes to ‘creamy suave and mild’ leather, your review is so comprehensive it gives me the impression I have smelled Cuir d’Ange too. We can all do with more leather perfumes as there aren’t so many around these days.

    Like Cornelia I also like Kelly Caleche – like but not love. September 17, 2014 at 8:59am Reply

    • Victoria: I haven’t smelled Diorling lately, but I liked it in the past. Sounds like it is time to revisit it! September 17, 2014 at 10:04am Reply

    • jillie: I’ve only just discovered Diorling and love it! My regret is that I never tried it before. It seems to have elements of some of my favourite Diors (Diorama, Diorella) but has such a lovely soft leather and incense drydown. Perfect for the warm start of our autumn. September 17, 2014 at 10:11am Reply

      • Aurora: Victoria and Jillie: Oh thank you for your endorsement of poor Diorling. September 17, 2014 at 10:26am Reply

    • Isis: Hi Aurora! That’s funny: I instantly liked the new Diorling when I tried it, years ago, and then I got distracted because its reformulation seems to have only haters and no lovers…. I’m going to revisit my sample! I did find then that it lost most of its charm after 40 minutes or so, so I’ve been looking for something similar in the niche market but without any succes. (Well: I díd come accross a lot of beautiful scents while searching, s I’m not complaining 🙂 ) September 18, 2014 at 4:05pm Reply

  • Michaela: Interesting but… low lasting power, six or seven sprays, and another one on clothes!… Not me, I think I tend to go for the beaver in heat.
    I’m not familiar with leather scents, but I do love Bottega Veneta.
    What about Cuir de Lancome, how is it? I never smelled it. September 17, 2014 at 9:04am Reply

    • Victoria: Cuir de Lancome is great if you like classical, slightly smoky, floral leathers. It’s definitely a beautiful thing. September 17, 2014 at 10:05am Reply

      • Michaela: Thank you. Another one to try, then, I’m not complaining 🙂
        I’ll also try Cuir d’Ange when I find it. September 17, 2014 at 10:10am Reply

        • Victoria: There is so much out there! 🙂 September 17, 2014 at 10:15am Reply

          • Maria B: I also endorse elegant Cuir de Lancôme. The saffron note gives it an unusual twist. But if you fall in love with this beauty, try to find a bottle of it quickly because it’s been discontinued. (I bought two.) September 17, 2014 at 12:09pm Reply

            • Michaela: Thank you! September 18, 2014 at 3:43am Reply

            • Victoria: That’s the only drawback, and I hope that they will reissue it again, as they sometimes do. September 18, 2014 at 4:53am Reply

  • OperaFan: “I’m sure I’m not the only leather wimp in town.”
    Well! I was Sure that I was the only perfume fanatic out there that could be classified a leather wimp! I Do like leather (or even better, suede) as an accent, but for the most part, very few leather-centric scents make it into my collection though I admire many.
    I love how you tie these reviews in with your memories. They make the fragrances even more personal and more desirable to try.
    Haven’t commented much lately – but I’ve been enjoying ALL of your recent posts!
    xoxo September 17, 2014 at 9:24am Reply

    • Victoria: That’s how I feel, although Patricia, our contributing writer, has joined Bois de Jasmin’s “leather wimp” camp. 🙂 She has a few leather favorites, but all of them are fairly mild. So, her reviews might be helpful for those who are looking for tamer, softer leathers. (Pat, I hope that I’m not misrepresenting your tastes!) September 17, 2014 at 10:11am Reply

      • Patricia: Victoria, it’s true that I like the milder leathers, but there’s a bit of Bandit in me from time to time, too! 😉 September 17, 2014 at 5:36pm Reply

        • Victoria: I suspected that there was some Bandit in you! And some Tabac Blond, if I remember correctly (that one is a top favorite for me too, but when it comes to dark and mysterious, few houses do it better than Caron.) September 18, 2014 at 4:58am Reply

          • Patricia: But only the vintage Tabac Blond…the reformulation is quite disappointing (though I own small amounts of both). September 18, 2014 at 8:44am Reply

            • Victoria: I tried the parfum recently at Place Vendome in Wevelgem, and I was surprised to discover how much I loved it. It’s less smoky and less leathery, but it’s really beautiful. Not sure if it was tweaked again or if my tastes have changed. September 18, 2014 at 9:08am Reply

              • Patricia: Oh good! Maybe it was tweaked again. I’m glad to hear this. September 18, 2014 at 10:24am Reply

            • OperaFan: I received a Tabac Blond perfume decant in a swap once, but ended up giving it away because all I got out of it was vanilla. 🙁
              Must have been a reformulated version… September 18, 2014 at 12:38pm Reply

  • Tijana: I am of similar taste like you when it comes to leather, and prefer it in a more ethereal form – so I will definitely try this! Thanks for the review! September 17, 2014 at 9:30am Reply

    • Victoria: If Cuir d’Ange would have lasted, I would splurge on a full bottle and I would certainly give it all 5 stars. The scent is really wonderful. September 17, 2014 at 10:11am Reply

  • D.D. Jackson: I always seem to end up in the contrarian position. Clearly we “Beaver Heat” wearers are a later-sleeping group than those with less robust leanings.

    I hope this isn’t out of place but, I’d love a new themed sampling list.

    So, if I may, I’d like to raise the beaver-heat battle standard here for those readers who would be willing to nominate their “Best of Beaver Heat” recommenations for my sampling pleasure.

    If I’m out of place, please just delete me : ) September 17, 2014 at 9:31am Reply

    • Victoria: You’re not out of place at all! In fact, as Operafan mentioned, if you read blogs, you come away with an impression that pretty much everyone loves the strong, “take no prisoners” leathers. I admire them, but they’re not my first choice.

      So, you like strong, big leathers, Robert Piguet Bandit is the one to start with. Serge Lutens’s Cuir Mauresque and Dzing are good intro versions, because they aren’t too rough, but they have plenty of animalic growl. September 17, 2014 at 10:09am Reply

      • D.D. Jackson: Thank you for your reply, Victoria.

        Trouble is I don’t know what I like. I’m late to the perfume rabbit hole and, after throwing quite a bit of time and money at the quest for ‘my scent’ last year, have mostly put that search away.

        I looked back into my samples. I’ve tried Bandit and Dzing and have Cuir Mauresque sitting next to me now to wear dancing tomorrow : )

        Everything I try isl delightful, just no one to take home to mama : (

        Thanks as always for your wonderful posts. September 17, 2014 at 11:45am Reply

        • Victoria: I always recommend to start the search slowly and to really take time testing the same perfume over and over again. Now, I know from my personal experience that it is the hardest part, because it’s tempting to get a whole bunch of samples and go through them quickly. And also, I know from a personal experience that this is an expensive and sometimes fruitless way of searching, because only by getting to know a few perfumes really well do you figure out your tastes. You may never end up loving Dzing, but you may discover that you love a certain part of it, and you can then recognize easily in another perfume.

          So, in other words, I’d recommend simply to live longer with what you’ve been testing so far before branching out further. September 17, 2014 at 11:56am Reply

          • D.D. Jackson: Thank you once again. I understand your points entirely and, in fact, that is largely what I was told by Robin and her friends at NST. —And that’s why I said I had put the search aside. I had wanted something short and simple. Now I think of myself as more of a scent tourist.

            At my age I am shedding projects rather than engaging in new ones. Were I twenty or forty years younger, the slower gradual buildup of real knowledge you recommend would make perfect sense.

            Now I’m just enjoying ‘smelling the roses’ …and the knowledge you share makes that so much more enjoyable. September 17, 2014 at 8:58pm Reply

            • Victoria: Maybe, that’s the best approach–just enjoy “smelling the roses” without the stress of having a project on your hands. I prefer my own perfume (and non-perfume) explorations to be this way. September 18, 2014 at 5:03am Reply

            • Annie O: D.D. I know exactly what you mean, as I have come to this joyous world of perfumes and blogs in a latter stage of my life. It has taken me three years of sampling before I began finding “my” personal perfumes. Like Victoria said, time is an important factor in educating the nose and heart. One day, some scent you thought you’d known, will hit you with a depth and joy that will knock your socks off! Good luck, have patience, and have fun! September 18, 2014 at 8:29pm Reply

    • Victoria: P.S. Cabochard and Shocking (not pure leather, but it has a great leathery, animalic note) are also worth trying. September 17, 2014 at 10:14am Reply

    • Isis: OK, my list would be (and I have no idea where I am on the beaver-whimp-scale):
      -MKK
      -Les Nombres d’Or Cuir
      -Cuir Mauresque
      -Cuir Ottoman ( I have to admit that Cuir Ottoman is completely soft and well behaved on me.. I don’t get any Ottoman-associations from it).
      -Lonestar Memories (I can’t stop recommending it to people. My life would be infinitely better if more men would smell liek Lonestar Memories) September 18, 2014 at 4:11pm Reply

      • Victoria: You are certainly not a wimp, and those are some gorgeous leathers on your list. September 19, 2014 at 7:53am Reply

  • rosarita: I’m with you on Bottega Veneta, in fact I recently obtained a second bottle which is rare for me; it’s just right for almost anything. Cuir de Lancombe is my second favorite soft floral leather. Thanks for the review! September 17, 2014 at 9:52am Reply

    • Victoria: I realized recently that if I don’t know what to put on, I just go for Bottega Veneta and it always feels perfect. I have very few perfumes that fit all moods like this. September 17, 2014 at 10:12am Reply

  • Cath: I love my leathers in all genres: from hard(er) Leather Oud to subtle Cuir Cannage en passant par many others like for example like Cuir Ottoman, Bottega Veneta and Tuscan Leather.
    Is the Hermes similar to Cuir Cannage? September 17, 2014 at 9:52am Reply

    • Victoria: I still haven’t tried Cuir Cannage, so I would love to hear how others like it. September 17, 2014 at 10:13am Reply

      • Alex: Smoky leather, sweet orange blossom, powdery iris. Very vintage vibe, good sillage and outstanding longevity. Not a wimp, but I believe you will like it! September 18, 2014 at 10:29am Reply

        • Victoria: It sounds wonderful! 🙂 September 18, 2014 at 10:42am Reply

          • Alex: It’s one of my top 5. Bandit would be my number 1, and Leather Oud in my top 10! September 18, 2014 at 10:55am Reply

            • Victoria: An even more tempting recommendation! September 19, 2014 at 7:53am Reply

  • allgirlmafia: Thanks to you, V, I have found great pleasure in my small bottle of vintage Jolie Madame. Cabochard is another that makes me inhale deeply each time we meet.

    I very much appreciate Bottega Veneta but something about it just does not ‘fit’ on me. September 17, 2014 at 9:53am Reply

    • Victoria: Vintage Jolie Madame is such a fascinating blend. On the one hand, it is a classical strong leather, but on another, it is effortless, elegant and super polished. I like it very much. September 17, 2014 at 10:15am Reply

      • Patricia: One of my favorites! [Goes to search for JM decant taken from large splash bottle of the vintage stuff…] September 17, 2014 at 5:43pm Reply

  • Poupoune: I have to disagree about the longevity, on my skin I still can smell it in the evening…
    As for all perfumes with a leather note, it must be tried on skin, because every combination skin/perfume will be unique. September 17, 2014 at 10:54am Reply

    • Victoria: Oh, lucky you! 🙂 September 17, 2014 at 11:51am Reply

  • Lucas: Hi Victoria!
    When I read the announcement that Hermes is going to introduce Cuir d’Ange I was very interested in trying this perfume, despite the fact that almost every single Hermes fragrance I tried didn’t work for me.

    Cuir d’Ange sounds like a really nice perfume, although I’m noticing that I’m starting to prefer when my leather perfumes have a little bit more presence and intensity. That really is an issue that the perfume is so light you have to apply with abandon to smell it on yourself.

    Anyway, if I happen to stumble upon it, I will give Cuir d’Ange a try. September 17, 2014 at 10:55am Reply

    • Victoria: If you didn’t like the Hermessence style, I don’t think that Cuir d’Ange will sway you. But of course, you never know, which is the beauty of fragrance in general. September 17, 2014 at 11:52am Reply

  • Kat: Not sure about flowery leathers or those that smell of purses–I have tested Bottega Veneta, Russie and Cuir de Lancome is on it’s way. But I’m looking for that delicious scent of an English tack shop. Any suggestions? Thanks, in advance… September 17, 2014 at 11:05am Reply

    • Victoria: I’d love to hear what others recommend! Have you tried Knize Ten? September 17, 2014 at 11:53am Reply

      • Kat: Thank you, Victoria…yes I have tried Knize Ten. I remember more of a petrol note, than the leather. September 17, 2014 at 1:13pm Reply

        • Victoria: Does Bandit smell of leather or petrol to you? September 18, 2014 at 4:54am Reply

          • Kat: It’s been awhile, but like the Cuir de Lancome I sampled yesterday…I recall leather with some smoke in Bandit, not the “bright, polished, yet buttery soft” aroma of a tack shop. 😛 Will keep searching, though… September 18, 2014 at 12:04pm Reply

            • Victoria: Forget about perfume, I want to find an English tack shop instead. 🙂 September 19, 2014 at 7:54am Reply

              • Kat: I would highly recommend it! 😀 September 19, 2014 at 1:16pm Reply

  • Figuier: This sounds lovely, if impractical! Seems like it’s in the same frequency range as Santal Massoia, which is basically my HG wood diluted down about a thousand times. I will definitely have to try in the shop and spray lavishly… September 17, 2014 at 5:25pm Reply

    • Victoria: Santal Massoia was better lasting on me than Cuir d’Ange, but I know what you mean, it’s a similar experience. With few exceptions, I think that it’s a beautiful collection of fragrances and if they would have lingered longer, I would be tempted by most of them. September 18, 2014 at 4:56am Reply

  • Amer: G.F.Trumper’s Spanish Leather Cologne. More a floral powder on a labdanum foundation than a leather to me but still… a leather
    It is marketed towards men but I don’t see why women shouldn’t give it a go. And a cheap thrill this one September 17, 2014 at 5:46pm Reply

    • Victoria: That’s another one to try, since I’m not familiar with it. September 18, 2014 at 4:59am Reply

      • Amer: you might find it a bit on the masculine side but I think you in particular will appreciate its vintage vibe. I decided to get me some right after I suggested it to you only to find that the only shop that sold it around here no longer carries it. Daaang! September 18, 2014 at 5:11am Reply

        • Victoria: Is it anything like Knize Ten (one of my favorite dark, vintage leathers)? September 18, 2014 at 5:21am Reply

  • annemarie: I get that there is beauty in ethereality, but in practical terms, I am on a tight budget and perfume has to work hard and do its bit. I get all day longevity out of two or three sprays of Bottega Veneta, and BV is much cheaper and more widely available. So there is really no contest. That said, out of curiosity I will probably get hold of a sample or decant of Cuir d’Ange, just out of curiosity.

    I’m lucky with Osmanthe Yunnan – I get several hours out of it. It’s the only Hermessence I feel really committed to. September 17, 2014 at 7:02pm Reply

    • Victoria: Osmanthe Yunnan lasts about the same way on me as Cuir d’Ange, so you may have more luck with it than I do. Like you, I also want my perfume to work hard. I know that some people don’t mind reapplying perfume throughout the day, but with Cuir d’Ange, I’d have to spray every few hours, which is not practical (and far too expensive). September 18, 2014 at 5:01am Reply

  • Sapphire: Definitely more a fan of soft leathers. My favorites are Guerlain Cuir Beluga and Traversee du Bosphore September 17, 2014 at 9:43pm Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you for reminding me about Cuir Beluga and Traversee du Bosphore. They’re definitely great leathers for someone who doesn’t want anything too sharp or too dark. September 18, 2014 at 5:04am Reply

  • Julie: I do love leather in my perfume, Cuir de Lancôme and Bottega Veneta are two favorites. I appreciate JCE’s mastery in creating a beautiful scent but what’s the point if you can’t even enjoy it because it doesn’t last?
    I hope I’m one of the lucky ones where it does last because I know I’m going to love this. September 17, 2014 at 10:31pm Reply

    • Victoria: I read a few interviews with him, in which he explained his philosophy behind perfume and its ethereal presence. I appreciate his creativity and thoughtfulness, but at the end of the day, I want to smell my perfume for at least a few hours. September 18, 2014 at 5:06am Reply

  • Cornelia Blimber: Idole (Lubin) came to my mind. The initial blast was rhum to my nose, pure rhum. But the drydown was a beautiful soft leather. September 18, 2014 at 6:15am Reply

    • Victoria: That is one delicious perfume. A dark, mysterious, and yet luminous somehow. September 18, 2014 at 9:11am Reply

  • Austenfan: This sounds utterly gorgeous. A pity it doesn’t last. I don’t mind paying a fortune for a fragrance but if it would be used up with the speed of a cologne… September 18, 2014 at 6:36am Reply

    • Victoria: Do try it, if you have a chance. You might have more luck making it linger than I did. September 18, 2014 at 9:10am Reply

      • Austenfan: I still need to try most of the Hermessences! I like a lot of Ellena’s work but really fleeting perfumes won’t make it on my to buy list.
        Funnily enough Thé Vert that some find fleeting lasts a good couple of hours on me. Very close to the skin but it is there! September 18, 2014 at 12:10pm Reply

        • Victoria: The Vert is light, but I can smell it for the entire day on me. It has the nicest perfume presence–distinctive and not overpowering. September 19, 2014 at 7:55am Reply

  • Phyllis Iervello: I have to agree about Lubin’s Idole–it smells fantastic and the bottle is unique and beautiful as well. September 18, 2014 at 5:13pm Reply

    • Victoria: Yes! That cap is something else. September 19, 2014 at 7:56am Reply

  • Lynn Morgan: The idea of a scent called Angel Leather is all too deliciously titilating…. I am reminded of the old David Bowie song, about Ziggy Stardust: ‘….he was a leather messiah…’I will have to stroll by Hermes and give it a sniff! September 18, 2014 at 6:45pm Reply

    • Victoria: Thank you for reminding me about that song! September 19, 2014 at 7:56am Reply

  • Annikky: This sounds wonderful and the review is beautiful, too. I like most of the Hermessence line and I love leather in all it’s forms, so I definitely need to try that. I know that the lasting power is going to frustrate me, but if I love this enough, I think I might finally get that 4x15ml gift set (for myself). With Brin de Reglisse, Santal Massoia and Vetiver Tonka, I think. Although this leaves out Epice Marine… Tough choices. September 19, 2014 at 4:05am Reply

    • Victoria: If I were to fantasize about a 4 bottle set, it would be pretty much the same as yours, although I might swap Santal Massoia for Osmanthe Yunnan, the most delicious and romantic tea perfume I know. Anyway, it would be a tough decision. 🙂 September 19, 2014 at 7:58am Reply

    • Austenfan: Those gift sets look so tempting! September 19, 2014 at 12:14pm Reply

      • Victoria: It is an excellent idea if you like several perfumes, and they are so convenient when you travel. September 20, 2014 at 4:17am Reply

        • Austenfan: I may actually get one with not Hermessences but with Eau de Narcisse Bleue en Eau de Gentiane Blanche and 2 others that I haven’t decided on yet. September 20, 2014 at 11:38am Reply

  • Isis: I also really lik eBoxeuses, which I think probably counts as a softer wearable leather. And I was wonderig: does anyone have any experience with Monegal’s Mon Cuir? September 19, 2014 at 4:07am Reply

    • Victoria: I love Boxeuses and I have been wearing it a lot lately. It’s a bolder leather than Bottega Veneta, but it’s not aggressive or rough.

      Not familiar with Mon Cuir, so maybe, someone else can comment. September 19, 2014 at 8:00am Reply

      • Isis: Boxeuses puzzles me a little. Its very warm and soft an cuddly in a way, completely smooth and friendly, but its not at all demure. It reminds me a little of Coco somehow.. they are both sort of burgundy-red to me. September 20, 2014 at 3:51am Reply

        • Victoria: You’ve described it perfectly! That’s exactly how it strikes me too. It makes me reach for a red lipstick when I wear it. September 20, 2014 at 4:19am Reply

          • Isis: Yes! Red lipstick. I can see myself in red lipstick, smokey eyes, but at te same time in something ultra ‘I don’t care what you think of me as long as I’m comfy’, like flannel pajamas of something oversized and made of wool. September 20, 2014 at 3:54pm Reply

            • Victoria: Can’t agree more! That’s why Boxeuses is such a fascinating perfume for me. September 22, 2014 at 3:33am Reply

  • Emma: Finally I understand Ellena’s highly unobtrusive olfactory style for Hermès. He explains on an interview by Sarah from flairflair.com the house of Hermès is «une maison de l’après-midi» , an afternoon house and definitely not a house of the night unlike other brands, and that was what he had in mind at all times when he created Jour d’Hermès.
    The Hermessence collection is obviously created after the same afternoon spirit.
    Ellena also admits he was surprised yet flatteted when he found out there were women sleeping wearing Jour as he never imagined his fragrances to be worn at night, which I think is very revealing of where he’s coming from on the creative and conceptual level.

    Emma September 19, 2014 at 12:47pm Reply

    • Victoria: I like the style of the house very much. It has coherence and the attention to detail is superb. I just wish some of the perfumes lasted better, but it just might be my skin. I don’t want a monster sillage around me, but I want to smell perfume on me now and again, in a subtle way. September 20, 2014 at 4:22am Reply

  • Emma: I’m with you on this. I can no longer wear monster sillage such as Boucheron and Alien. I’m wearing Jour right now two years after dismissing it originally, I do enjoy it a lot but I need to reapply during the day which is fine because the refill is not expensive but as you mentioned reapplying Hermessence isn’t really cheap.
    I’m disappointed to hear about Cuir d’Ange poor longevity but I’m still going to try it this afternoon at the Americana in Manhasset, I’m curious about leather rendition stripped of animalic notes. September 20, 2014 at 11:12am Reply

    • Victoria: Alien is a beautiful perfume, but its strong sillage makes it almost impossible for me to wear. It’s a perfume that wears me, not the other way around.

      With Cuir d’Ange, if you spray it on your scarf, it has a nice presence, and over the weekend, I even got a compliment on it. September 22, 2014 at 3:35am Reply

      • Emma: I agree Alien is a beautiful perfume, I read on Beaute Test, it sells better today than when it was first launched, back then Alien had to prove something because of Angel’s success. I have a bottle, I rarely wear it, only if I go out to trendy hot spots like Toku or Kyma in Manhasset, for those who know the North Shore of Long Island. If it’s a scene, Alien is perfect for this. September 22, 2014 at 12:20pm Reply

  • Emma: I went to the Hermès boutique in Manhasset yesterday and they didn’t have it and had no idea when it’s coming.
    Did you find it at the Madison Ave location? September 21, 2014 at 2:58pm Reply

    • Victoria: I’m not in NYC, so I don’t really know where it will end up there, but based on what I read online, it should be this month. September 22, 2014 at 3:32am Reply

      • Emma: I thought you lived in a very affluent community of Bergen County, I don’t know why.
        I guess I’ll call Madison next week. September 22, 2014 at 12:25pm Reply

        • Victoria: That’s funny. I actually had to look up where Bergen County is located. 🙂 September 22, 2014 at 12:34pm Reply

  • Merlin: Coming to this post rather late, but I have just recently realized how leather-heavy my collection is!

    The strange thing is that many popular leathers do not work for me: Bandit (harsh and unpleasant) Cuir de Lancolm (aged and powdery) Cuir de Russie (somewhat sour but not always sure I can even smell it), Rien (burning plastic), Knize 10 (horribly animalic on me) Bottega Veneta (too melancholic) Cuir Ottoman (also makes me sad)

    On the other hand I have and enjoy Cabochard, Gomma, Nostalgia and Bal a Versailles. I’v also recently discovered Cuir Cannage and am saving up for it. I love the orange blossom menthol feeling, married to the leather. So basically there seems to be NO pattern to what I like??? September 29, 2014 at 7:04pm Reply

    • Victoria: You have diverse tastes that don’t fit under any “type.” I think that it’s a good thing. 🙂 September 30, 2014 at 10:05am Reply

      • Merlin: Thanks for the reassurance 🙂 It does mean that blind buying is forever a bad idea – in my case, lol! September 30, 2014 at 11:27am Reply

        • Victoria: That’s a good policy anyway–to try on skin first. September 30, 2014 at 1:55pm Reply

          • Merlin: True, but I am a little envious of those who are able to predict whether they will like a scent by just reading reviews, descriptions and notes. A perfume either grabs me, or it doesn’t and its impossible to predict from any kind of written info. September 30, 2014 at 3:23pm Reply

            • Victoria: I also find it hard to predict, because some fragrances are beautiful, but they don’t move me. Others may not be the masterpieces of perfumery, but they click with me. I usually try something several times before buying, and only two blind buys were absolutely spot on for me–Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan and Frederic Malle Carnal Flower. September 30, 2014 at 4:31pm Reply

  • Carla: Ellena is amazing. I have decants of Ambre Narguile and Rose Ikebana that I really enjoy and I always spray on Osmanthe Yunnan at the airport to get me through the next hours of travel. But my favorite “Ellena” is the one I mistakenly thought was his for years – Eau de Cartier. How funny it is Christine Nagel who did it and now she is working with him. Well, actually not surprising at all, Eau de Cartier showed she can do his style. I am curious to sniff this one but I do agree, I prefer my perfumes with more heft than the Hermessences. Perhaps when I return to work in a corporate setting one day I will be thankful for Ellena. Also, I enjoyed reading La Note Verte. I’m always looking for good light books to read in French; Flaubert is just not possible for me even if I am fluent, it’s not my native language! October 20, 2014 at 1:18pm Reply

    • Victoria: Funny, I also thought for the longest time that he created Eau de Cartier. It felt so “Ellena”! October 20, 2014 at 2:36pm Reply

  • Irina: Victoria, I am not sure if this is allowed, but I saw this wonderful illustration of Cuir d’Ange (and some other fragrances) on Tumblr: http://veinte9.tumblr.com/post/112721825254/sachinteng-since-you-guys-gave-so-much-love-to

    I just got my first gift set of Hermessences and Cuir d’Ange is the first I ran to spray. Almond and calf leather on me, with a dash of hawthorne, it’s love at first sniff! Going on three hours now… March 4, 2015 at 7:40pm Reply

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