Why Green Fragrances Are Difficult and Yet Fascinating?

My wedding outfit wasn’t white. It was green, because in the western part of India where my husband’s family originates and where we were married, it means the color of life, spring and rejuvenation. Since then I have been paying more attention to this color, and the scents associated with it. In perfumery green can be suggested by a variety of materials, from naturals like violet leaf and galbanum to synthetics such as leaf alcohols that smell of freshly cut grass.

Green notes, however, can be difficult to wear, which is why, though this perfume family has many loyal fans, it remains small. We prefer our scents of freshly cut grass and new leaves in the air, rather than in the bottle. Nevertheless, certain green fragrances have become classics. One is L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. It creates its signature fig accord with the clever combination of ivy, leaves and galbanum. The latter is a fennel-like plant that produces a pungent smelling essential oil. When carefully dosed, however, galbanum conjures up the vivid colors of spring—young buds, new leaves, damp earth.

Galbanum was also used in another classic, Chanel No 19, that reinterpreted the familiar chypre accord (an interplay of moss, bergamot, patchouli and musk) in a green manner. Chanel No 19 also exists in a softer version called Chanel No 19 Poudré, that blends layers of downy musk with iris petals and leaves.

A vivid verdant idea is explored in Eau de Minthé by Diptyque, a bright composition that contrasts the intensity of leafy green and cool minty notes with the woody warmth of patchouli. It also layers in spices to amplify the effervescence of greens.

Another perfume that uses green notes to advantage is Ormonde Jayne Tiare. Luminous and transparent, Tiare nevertheless retains a plush character. The peach and coconut nuances of tiare flowers are enhanced with jasmine and ylang ylang. This high-volume accord might have been overwhelming, if it were not for the green orange flower and iris. Yet, it smells of more than just flowers. Tiare smells of places– a garden overgrown with tall grasses and lilies, a florist shop, an Old Delhi stall selling flower garlands.

As for my own wedding fragrance, I had two for each day of ceremonies and both were inflected with green. One was Annick Goutal’s Un Matin d’Orage, a vignette of frangipani blossoms scattered on the grass. The other was Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, a tuberose shaded green. It smelled of spring that held the promise of eternal summer.

Do you have favorite green perfumes?

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37 Comments

  • Gretchen: I do love green fragrances, and iris, and incense – all, I suppose, “difficult” scents. My favorite greens (beyond No. 19) are Perle de Mousse, En Avion (not quite green), Scherrer I, and Encre Noire (although I think of vetiver as gold, not green). I’m sure there are others in the crazy-pants number of bottles, decants, and samples I have, but these are my stand-outs. Eager to see others’ recommendations on this! As to why we love them? I’d say because their very nature encourages me to think, to settle in and be quiet, instead of externally focused, and because I wear them for me, less for others. When I know I’ll be with lots of people, I tend to not use these, and go for a more subtle, non-sillage, fragrance. The greens are my treasure. February 3, 2025 at 9:23am Reply

  • Mark Bieraugel: I love the Sisley Eau De Campagne, and all the green fig scents on my husband. Also Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Silences by Jacomo, Aromatic Elixir by Clinique, February 3, 2025 at 9:24am Reply

  • Kaisa: Thank you for the survey of greens! Personally I am especially enamoured of galbanum.

    Green chypres and green-inflected florals are among my favourites: Miss Dior, Diorella, Chanel No. 19, Antonia, Chypre-Siam, Y, Safari, Fidji, Hera, Fleur de Lalita. I find a bit of bracing green makes florals less cloying.

    Unfortunately I don’t get on with the Hermès Jardins line – but Corsica Furiosa and Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d’Empire were the standouts of last summer for me. February 3, 2025 at 9:26am Reply

  • Allison C.: I love Chanel No. 19. I have an old, empty bottle of Givenchy III that I can still smell and wish was still in production. My sister wears Eau de Courreges (I think discontinued also) and that smells bright green and citrusy to me and smells amazing on her. I know availability of ingredients/components has changed but I haven’t come across modern green fragrances that are as appealing to me as the older ones. But I will seek out the ones you mentioned! February 3, 2025 at 9:33am Reply

    • Kaisa: Oh I loved Givenchy iii but unfortunately it broke my skin out in blotches… the oakmoss probably. I’m with you on most modern greens. February 3, 2025 at 12:05pm Reply

  • Gordon: I am on a 70s-80s green chypre binge. Jean Louis Scherrer, Amazone, Givenchy III—they are delicious and classy. February 3, 2025 at 9:52am Reply

    • la_ninon: I adore Givenchy III February 9, 2025 at 1:36pm Reply

  • Surbhi Malpani: The most recent green fragrance I liked is synthetic jungle. I love it when I smell it from the card and for the first hour or so. It eventually dries like a cheap male cologne on my skin 🙁 so I had to skip it buy, absolutely love the first hour. February 3, 2025 at 10:28am Reply

  • SoSuSam: Green fragrances! Thanks for highlighting them today. I adore them. (Although I do not get on with any fig fragrances–love the smell of figs in real life, but not in perfume.) Some of my favs include Chanel No 19 and Cristalle EDT (citrus, yes, but also quite green), Roxana Villa Illuminated Perfume Greenwitch (she calls it a marine chypre, but it’s wonderfully green), Jo Loves Green Orange & Coriander (you can see by the notes it’s a citrus/herb combo, but it shows up as a spicy green to me), Givenchy III, ELd’O You or Someone Like You, Goutal Eau de Camille (gone now, heartbreakingly so) and their Un Matin d’Orage, as you noted, FM French Lover and Geranium Pour Monsieur, Voyage d’Hermes (maybe more flinty than green, but wonderful) plus Un Jardin Sur Le Nil…I could go on and on, but I’ll spare you 🙂 Suffice to say, I can’t get enough of them. February 3, 2025 at 10:44am Reply

  • GinaP: The greens are my favorites! Chanel No. 19, Artisan’s Premier Figuer, Goutal’s Matin d’Orage, Encre Noir, Goutal’s Ninfeo Mio, Diptyque’s Ombre Dans L’Eau, Un Jardin en Mediterranee and Sue Le Nil, Cartier Baiser Vole. I’m sure there are others in my collection, but these stand out. February 3, 2025 at 10:48am Reply

  • Carolyn Middleton: My all-time favourite, sadly no longer available, Annick Goutal’s Eau de Camille – I would often have people commenting “oh you smell lovely” when I wore it; a receptionist at a London hotel I stayed in the other year said the same thing when I was wearing Bulgari’s Eau Parfumee au The Vert; I also loved Van Cleef & Arpels Le Printemps, think it was a limited edition; have worn L’Artisan Premier Figuier, mentioned in the article above; others that come to mind I’ve worn & loved – Privet Bloom – a revelation!; Le Temps d’une Fete; Penhaligon’s Bluebell (which I wore on & off for years & my best friend told me relatively recently she’d always loathed it!); Fresh’s Enact which morphed into Cucumber Baie. Think that’s about it…but I’m always open to something new, of course, especially as quite a few I’ve mentioned are no longer available. February 3, 2025 at 10:55am Reply

  • Safran: Love green scents! Unfortunately my husband doesn’t, so I don’t wear them often. Some favourites are Vero Profumos original Mito, Chanel Bel Respiro and La Pausa, Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé, Goutal Ninfeo Mio, Comme des Garcons Nomad Tea, Christèle Jacquemin Impermanence, Diptyque Philosykos. And two other extremely beautiful ones, that are on my wishlist: Xinu Monstera and Green Spell by Eris Parfums. February 3, 2025 at 11:18am Reply

  • Hamamelis: Green lover here too! Eau de Camille, fortunately still have an almost full bottle, Vero’s Mito and many of the other ones mentioned in the comments. Parfum d’Empire’s Mal Aimé is my favourite at the moment, and for the mourners of Eau de Camille it may be worthwhile to sample it. February 3, 2025 at 11:38am Reply

    • genevieve fawcett: Another green lover over here… My first love was a small sample of Vent Vert by Balmain. And along the way have loved Eau de Minthé, Bel Respiro-Chanel, Ninfeo Mio-Goutal, Vetiver Ecarlate-L’Artisan Parfumeur, Tomato Leather-Cognoscenti (which may not be green per se, but has a green vegetal note I love) My most recent swoon worthy green scent is Viola-Fiele Fragrances. Thank you for another great post, Victoria. February 3, 2025 at 1:00pm Reply

      • Tatiana Owen: I was hoping someone would mention Vent Vert! February 3, 2025 at 5:42pm Reply

  • Susie: I love bamboo scents, but have not yet found one with staying power. I blind purchased the inexpensive Bambou by Weil and love the floral greenness of it, but it lasts only minutes.

    I am looking forward to sampling some of people’s favorites listed here! February 3, 2025 at 12:00pm Reply

    • Safran: Have you tried Poème de Sagano from Ella K. yet? I just happened to try it in a store today. It’s fairly light, but still has decent staying power. February 3, 2025 at 1:02pm Reply

      • Susie: Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll try to find a sample to try! February 3, 2025 at 3:36pm Reply

    • Kaisa: Not sure how much of a bamboo scent this is but the name is that of a bamboo forest near Kyoto… it’s definitely green, though for me personally too aquatic. Mousse Arashiyama by Le Jardin Retrouvé. February 5, 2025 at 8:09am Reply

  • SylviaH: I never wore green fragrances, but last year something clicked and now I love them. No 19 is a favourite. Other loves are Mito voile d’Extrait, Sous le Vent and Coven. Still on my wishlist are Greenspell, Corsica Furiosa and Azemour les Orangers.
    I’m looking forward to seeing other peoples suggestions. February 3, 2025 at 1:46pm Reply

  • Marianne: Thank you for this interesting topic Victoria. I’ve always preferred green scents. But first, two that come to mind may fit another category, the first Hermes 24 Rue Faubourg, so sunny and fresh. I wore it for years, before switching to the other, my beloved Sisley Eau du Soir, perhaps more chypre than green. Oh, I’ll stop trying to categorize! I’ve loved and worn Guerlain Habit Rouge, especially for holidays in the sun where it received many compliments. I was instantly drawn to Chanel Pour Monsieur and have a bottle of what to me is gentle perfection. Now that my sense of smell is returning after bouts of Covid, I recently sprayed a sample of Chanel Cristalle which to me is better than ever, a unique, intriguing green. Throughout the years there’s always been a place for No. 19, although some iterations have been a little sweet for my preference. February 3, 2025 at 6:09pm Reply

  • Aurora: Like many of your readers green perfumes are some of my favorites. I’ll add Clinique Wrappings to the list. February 3, 2025 at 8:14pm Reply

  • Aire: Oh, yes, Vent Vert was lovely! I also like Bandit. Kelly Caleche, and No. 19.
    Mito reminded me a lot of Bandit.
    I checked with Ormonde Jayne and Tiare isn’t available any more. It was my favorite of the line. February 3, 2025 at 10:42pm Reply

  • Rickyrebarco: I love Chanel No. 19 and Chanel No. 19 Poudre. When I was younger I wore mainly green fragrances, Estee Laude’sr original Aliage and the original Jacomo Silences, both wonderful and refreshing. The current versions seem to be mere shadows of the originals. February 3, 2025 at 11:30pm Reply

    • Rickyrebarco: I forgot Chanel’s Bel Respiro, love it! February 3, 2025 at 11:32pm Reply

  • Lisa Johnson: I was lucky enough to grab two marvels from eBay back in the day when it was worth looking- an unopened bottle of Vent Vert from the 70s AND a tiny prism bottle of Vent Vert extract. Both are magnificent.
    Other greens (which by and large make up my summer fragrance wardrobe) I love are 19 (of course) Cristalle, Annick Goutal Eau du Sud, Yardley Jade (yes! Yardley- Jade is not a million miles away from Cristalle) Liz Earle 1, and 4160 Tuesdays’ Ealing Green.
    All, to me, have that crisp, grass, sharp tang with a hint of straw that makes greens so wonderful. February 4, 2025 at 12:52am Reply

  • Tamasin: Tiare by Ormonde Jayne is my all time favourite for an occasion of fabulousness ….but sadly in short supply now. Ormonde Woman is utterly different , but also green flashes into it February 4, 2025 at 2:01am Reply

    • Christina: I also enjoy Chanel No19 and Versace Versense is a delightful green fragrance to this lifetime lover of greens who hates to be without something green. February 4, 2025 at 9:51am Reply

  • Ksenija: My favourite green perfume of all time must be Fidji. I also really loved the Vent Vert sadly not available anymore. I would love to see some modern interpretation of. green accord that is not fig or tea-centered. These ones I feel have been done to death. February 4, 2025 at 3:44am Reply

  • Klaas: I LOVE green fragrances, I wear them often and year round, though they tend to do better in spring and summer. I like my greens super green though, most green fragrances are too floral for me…..the more I smell like a bitter green salad, the better!!

    My favorites are Trudon II (very challenging, with woods and green notes in a very tight embrace), Eau de Campagne, Corsica Furioso, Le Mal Aimé, Hinoki (Comme des Garçons) and Bel Respiro. And Basilico & Fellini (Vilhelm Perfumery), though it’s ridiculously expensive!!

    Aqua Allegorie Herba Fresca, Harmattan Noir (Pierre Guillaume) and Eau de Lierre (Diptyque) are wonderful, too! February 4, 2025 at 7:52am Reply

  • Nefertari: My favorite green perfumes are Vent vert and Miss Dior, Fidji, Givenchy lll. I’m very curious about victoria’s thoughts on two recent green perfumes – Frederic malle Synthetic Nature and Parfum d’Empire Mal-Aimé. February 4, 2025 at 8:52am Reply

  • Alityke: Greens have been my go to since the late 70s.
    Cristalle edt, No 19 in all iterations, Givenchy III, Sisley Eau de Campagne & Eau de Soir, Vent Vert, Ma Griffe, Silences, OG Ivoire de Balmain, OG Azuree etc. I have worn the all.

    I’m interested to see what the recent re-release of Vent Vert is like February 5, 2025 at 7:37am Reply

  • Carolyn Middleton: Forgot to mention – & this was a limited edition too, sadly – Hermes Muguet Porcelaine – absolutely gorgeous, leaning heavily (in a good way) towards the green rather than the lily of the valley side. Spotted it in the Hermes concession of Brown Thomas when visiting Dublin a few years ago – chatted with the lovely sales person & was given three generous samples, even though I didn’t buy anything! February 5, 2025 at 10:02am Reply

  • Sule: A little “fincan ” of Turkish coffee with two bitter almond .Fabulos as taste and as well flavour. February 5, 2025 at 11:34am Reply

  • Vivienne: I would love to try the original Vent Vert. I wish that someone would reproduce it, following the original formula, and with modern synthetic equivalents. I dislike reformulations and reinterpretations – a case in point is Jicky – Mon Guerlain. I am interested in your comments re Mitsouko and Peche Mirage. February 7, 2025 at 1:38am Reply

  • emercycrite: Guerlain’s Joyeuse Tubereuse opens with a verdant green note that recalls freshly picked grass and flowers. February 8, 2025 at 3:33am Reply

  • la_ninon: My favorite perfumes are all galbanum-heavy green floral chypres: Niki de St Phalle, Verte Pour Madame, Givenchy III, Safari. February 9, 2025 at 1:39pm Reply

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