My wedding outfit wasn’t white. It was green, because in the western part of India where my husband’s family originates and where we were married, it means the color of life, spring and rejuvenation. Since then I have been paying more attention to this color, and the scents associated with it. In perfumery green can be suggested by a variety of materials, from naturals like violet leaf and galbanum to synthetics such as leaf alcohols that smell of freshly cut grass.
Green notes, however, can be difficult to wear, which is why, though this perfume family has many loyal fans, it remains small. We prefer our scents of freshly cut grass and new leaves in the air, rather than in the bottle. Nevertheless, certain green fragrances have become classics. One is L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier. It creates its signature fig accord with the clever combination of ivy, leaves and galbanum. The latter is a fennel-like plant that produces a pungent smelling essential oil. When carefully dosed, however, galbanum conjures up the vivid colors of spring—young buds, new leaves, damp earth.
Galbanum was also used in another classic, Chanel No 19, that reinterpreted the familiar chypre accord (an interplay of moss, bergamot, patchouli and musk) in a green manner. Chanel No 19 also exists in a softer version called Chanel No 19 Poudré, that blends layers of downy musk with iris petals and leaves.
A vivid verdant idea is explored in Eau de Minthé by Diptyque, a bright composition that contrasts the intensity of leafy green and cool minty notes with the woody warmth of patchouli. It also layers in spices to amplify the effervescence of greens.
Another perfume that uses green notes to advantage is Ormonde Jayne Tiare. Luminous and transparent, Tiare nevertheless retains a plush character. The peach and coconut nuances of tiare flowers are enhanced with jasmine and ylang ylang. This high-volume accord might have been overwhelming, if it were not for the green orange flower and iris. Yet, it smells of more than just flowers. Tiare smells of places– a garden overgrown with tall grasses and lilies, a florist shop, an Old Delhi stall selling flower garlands.
As for my own wedding fragrance, I had two for each day of ceremonies and both were inflected with green. One was Annick Goutal’s Un Matin d’Orage, a vignette of frangipani blossoms scattered on the grass. The other was Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, a tuberose shaded green. It smelled of spring that held the promise of eternal summer.
Do you have favorite green perfumes?
7 Comments
Gretchen: I do love green fragrances, and iris, and incense – all, I suppose, “difficult” scents. My favorite greens (beyond No. 19) are Perle de Mousse, En Avion (not quite green), Scherrer I, and Encre Noire (although I think of vetiver as gold, not green). I’m sure there are others in the crazy-pants number of bottles, decants, and samples I have, but these are my stand-outs. Eager to see others’ recommendations on this! As to why we love them? I’d say because their very nature encourages me to think, to settle in and be quiet, instead of externally focused, and because I wear them for me, less for others. When I know I’ll be with lots of people, I tend to not use these, and go for a more subtle, non-sillage, fragrance. The greens are my treasure. February 3, 2025 at 9:23am
Mark Bieraugel: I love the Sisley Eau De Campagne, and all the green fig scents on my husband. Also Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Silences by Jacomo, Aromatic Elixir by Clinique, February 3, 2025 at 9:24am
Kaisa: Thank you for the survey of greens! Personally I am especially enamoured of galbanum.
Green chypres and green-inflected florals are among my favourites: Miss Dior, Diorella, Chanel No. 19, Antonia, Chypre-Siam, Y, Safari, Fidji, Hera, Fleur de Lalita. I find a bit of bracing green makes florals less cloying.
Unfortunately I don’t get on with the Hermès Jardins line – but Corsica Furiosa and Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d’Empire were the standouts of last summer for me. February 3, 2025 at 9:26am
Allison C.: I love Chanel No. 19. I have an old, empty bottle of Givenchy III that I can still smell and wish was still in production. My sister wears Eau de Courreges (I think discontinued also) and that smells bright green and citrusy to me and smells amazing on her. I know availability of ingredients/components has changed but I haven’t come across modern green fragrances that are as appealing to me as the older ones. But I will seek out the ones you mentioned! February 3, 2025 at 9:33am
Gordon: I am on a 70s-80s green chypre binge. Jean Louis Scherrer, Amazone, Givenchy III—they are delicious and classy. February 3, 2025 at 9:52am
Surbhi Malpani: The most recent green fragrance I liked is synthetic jungle. I love it when I smell it from the card and for the first hour or so. It eventually dries like a cheap male cologne on my skin 🙁 so I had to skip it buy, absolutely love the first hour. February 3, 2025 at 10:28am
SoSuSam: Green fragrances! Thanks for highlighting them today. I adore them. (Although I do not get on with any fig fragrances–love the smell of figs in real life, but not in perfume.) Some of my favs include Chanel No 19 and Cristalle EDT (citrus, yes, but also quite green), Roxana Villa Illuminated Perfume Greenwitch (she calls it a marine chypre, but it’s wonderfully green), Jo Loves Green Orange & Coriander (you can see by the notes it’s a citrus/herb combo, but it shows up as a spicy green to me), Givenchy III, ELd’O You or Someone Like You, Goutal Eau de Camille (gone now, heartbreakingly so) and their Un Matin d’Orage, as you noted, FM French Lover and Geranium Pour Monsieur, Voyage d’Hermes (maybe more flinty than green, but wonderful) plus Un Jardin Sur Le Nil…I could go on and on, but I’ll spare you 🙂 Suffice to say, I can’t get enough of them. February 3, 2025 at 10:44am